Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif)

For some time now I'dd been intrigued by that beautiful red and gray granite wall about 150 meters high just below Dent du Géant. On 17 July I finally had the opportunity to inspect it and with Mongi, Giovanna Mongilardi, we set off armed with a drill, wrench and hammer. I started up the first pitch and was immediately greeted by a sheet of magnificent gray granite ! I continued up another pitch, then Giovanna called it a day, it was too cold to continue, we retreated. Eager to finish the job, I ask Gianluca Marra with whom I'd already spoken about the route, and we returned on 21 and 24 July 21 to finish bolting and cleaning the line. The result, Cric e Croc, is a beautiful 6-pitch outing past interesting cracks and some technical slabs.

We decided to call the wall Rognon Vaudano, in memory of Davide Vaudano, who unfortunately died on the Rutor glacier in August 2009. In 1993/1994 the mountain guide Rudy Buccella together with Davide and Roberto Romano, an aspiring guide who also unfortunately died more than twenty years ago, bolted two 4-pitch climbs on the far lefthand side of the face. Since 1993 the glacier has lowered by about 50/60 meters. The approach is about 25/30 minutes from Punta Helbronner and the Torino mountain hut, following the trail that leads towards Aigille Marbrées, and then heading up towards the base of the peak.

by Niccolò Bruni

Link: www.guidecourmayeur.com