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Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this...
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
17/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in...
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
Between 5 and 8 February 2023 the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of the Rébuffat route (Michel Chevalier, Gaston Rébuffat 26/07/1944) on the NW face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m) in the...
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
09/02/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson frees Bon Voyage, new trad gem at Annot in France
British rock climber James Pearson has climbed his long-standing trad project in Annot, France. 'Bon Voyage' shares the same start as Pearson's 2017 'Le Voyage' (E10), and although no grade has been put forward yet, it promises to be up...
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini,  Francesco Ratti
06/02/2023 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Francesco Ratti
On 31/01/2023 the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of 'Wake Up' (425m, 7a/A2).
Stefano Ghisolfi crowned king of Arco with Excalibur 9b+
06/02/2023 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi crowned king of Arco with Excalibur 9b+
On Friday 3 February 2023 Stefano Ghisolfi made the first ascent of Excalibur at Drena close to Arco. Graded 9b+, it is now one of the hardest sport climbs in Italy.
Reel Rock 17
03/02/2023 - Climbing
Reel Rock 17
Reel Rock 17 will begin its global tour as of March 2023. The new season features Seb Bouin attempting to free DNA in the Verdon Gorge, Andrew Bisharat and Palestinian climbers in the strife-torn hills of Palestine, and Barbara Zangerl...
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m)....
Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
02/02/2023 - Climbing
Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
At Cresciano in Switzerland 23-year-old German athlete Yannick Flohe has made the first ascent of the 8C+ boulder problem 'Return of the Dreamtime'.
Seb Bouin makes first ascent Rei de Bering, the hardest sport climb in Portugal
01/02/2023 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent Rei de Bering, the hardest sport climb in Portugal
French climber Sébastien Bouin has sent a flurry of hard routes in Portugal. At the seacliff crag Meio Mango at Cabo Espichel the 29-year-old established Rei de Bering at 9a+/b the hardest sport climb in the country.
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
31/01/2023 - Climbing
Seb Berthe redpoints La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
On 27/01/2023 Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe repeated La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana, Spain
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
26/01/2023 - Alpinism
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont...
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides...
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
12,330 meters of altitude gain and a 138 km integral traverse, over a period of two days, solo, across the Queyras mountains from Vars to Villard. This, in short, is the ski mountaineering traverse carried out by French mountaineer Benjamin...

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