New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli

A fortnight after their first ascent of Sognando l’inimmaginabile on the east face of Mont Blanc du Créton (Petites Murailles, Gruppo Dent d’Hérens-Matterhorn), François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli have struck again. From the 12th to 13th of February the Italian alpinists established a new route on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773m) in the Mont Blanc massif, in Italy.

The new 600m line tops out on the west face of Punta Brendel at 3498m and was established with one bivouac and after dealing with rock, mixed and ice past difficulties up to M8, 7a/7a+, AI5.

In Favre's words, the experience was "really intense and tough, both due to the harsh environment and the difficulties of the route and the bivy in the couloir.” Cazzanelli explained further "Unfortunately we endured a really tough bivouac with spindrift plummeting down on us all night long, soaking our sleeping bags and totally freezing us!"

The mountaineers continued their climb the next morning, summitting on Monday February 13th at around 2pm. They descended via abseil, equipping all belays with pegs and cams. The new line is called Couloir Isaïe, after Favre’s son.

Cazzanelli thanks: La Sportiva, Cervinia-Valtournenche, Garmin, Grivel, Julbo, Ski Trab