Seb Bouin makes first ascent Rei de Bering, the hardest sport climb in Portugal

Sébastien Bouin spent the most part of January 2023 in Portugal exploring the area around Cabo Espichel, the dramatic promontory overlooking the Atlantic Ocean circa 45 minutes drive outside of Lisbon. Here the 29-year-old climbed at what he has described as some of the most beautiful limestone crags he has ever seen.

During his three-week trip he repeated Filipinos, the 9a at Meio Mango first ascended in 2019 André Neres and formerly the hardest route in the country, then established two harder, brand new routes: Mar de Bering 9a/+ and Rei de Bering 9a+/b. The latter is now the country’s hardest sport climb.

Bouin explained "Ones of my favourite trips for sure and the rock is really good, some of the best limestone I’ve seen. After sending Mar de Bering, I was searching for something harder. 

There is a left start, coming from the very end of the cave. This start added a lot before joining the actual Mar de Bering (like Jumbo Love direct). It adds a lot of endurance before and I was coming on the crux quite tired everytime. The rock is amazing and this route is a true kingline.

After sending this new route (Rei de Berin, 9a+/b), I had two more days. I decided to find an even more futuristic line for my next trip.

I found a cave with a good potential and bolted a line straight through it. The quality of the holds is amazing. It looks a bit like Flatanger rock, but it's limestone.

I tried the route briefly during my last day. I was tired, but I figured out almost all of the moves. I am really psyched to come back here again soon!"

Seb’s Portugal ticklist 
9a+/b FA, Rei de Bering
9a/+ FA Mar de Bering
9a first repetition after the André Neres's Filipinos
8b onsight FA 
8c second go FA
8a+ onsight
BOA: Bolting a super hard project