Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites

I had been planning to do Chimera Verticale for quite a while and then, given the lack of climbing partners who had enough time for a repeat, I decided to climb it on my own. It seemed like a good adventure to end the summer climbing season.

I left at 3 in the morning from Piani di Pezzè, my haulbag was quite heavy with all the gear for the climb and the bivy, but above all with all the water I had with me for the next two days on the wall.

I felt the long approach of 3-4 hours in the dark, and reached the base of the route at about 7 am. I thought I’d climb in complete solitude, but actually there was a team on Captain Skyhook, and the Piedmont Mountain Guides were  doing the aspiring mountain guide’s exam on the nearby Andrich route. So I wasn't at all alone on the North West Face.

Once I started I immediately got into a good rhythm and the rope work went so smoothly that I managed to completely enjoy these wonderful slabs of fantastic rock. But since I was alone and always on the move, either climbing or hauling my bag at the belay, the ascent proved quite tiring.

The first section of Chimera is relatively easy, up to grade UIAA VII, and it leads to the so-called Hotel Transcivetta. I arrived at this ledge at 2.30 pm and, although everything had gone really well up to this point, I have to admit I was fairly tired after those first 8 pitches.

The crux pitch lies just above the ledge and ideally I wanted to get this done on my first day. So after a good afternoon nap I set off, up the crux pitch, which to my surprise I managed to climb free straight off. Not without a good fight though! I returned to the ledge, ate and slept well despite the fact that there were a few drops of rain during during the night.

The next day it was very cold, cloudy and a strong wind blew from the north. Since there were only 6 more pitches to the summit though, I felt optimistic; since you’re always on the move during a rope solo, you don't get cold particularly quickly. Having said that, the remaining six pitches are all quite difficult and with my hands completely frozen I stopped free climbing shortly after the start of pitch 9, so as to continue upwards faster.

All the pitches went well I’d say, except for the 11th pitch with its long traverse where removing the pro proved complicated; making pendulums on pegs with the big haulbag dangling from the rope did make me feel a little anxious. Anyways, I got to the top at 2.15 pm and was back at the car at 5.30 pm.

I am quite satisfied with my performance and my times, also because I had plenty of margin by the time I returned to the valley.

I tried to get info as much as possibile and it seems as if mine is the first rope-solo of the route. Congratulations to the first ascensionists, Chimera Verticale is a fantastic route, difficult and established with traditional protection only. There are too few routes like these around today.

di Janluca Kostner

Thanks to: SCARPA, Gruppo Alpinisti Gardena (GAG)

TOPO: Chimera Verticale, Civetta, Dolomites