DoloMitiche - the Dolomites climbing trip by Alessandro Beber
A trip to discover some of the rock climbs which shaped the history of climbing in the Dolomites. And meet the first ascentionists. This is the interesting and difficult task which Italian Mountain Guide Alessandro Beber has set himself for this summer and which will lead him via to some of the most popular lines but also to some of the less famous outings to shed some light on some semi-forgotten works of art.
The intense summer trip up some of the most fascinating and representative mountain faces in the Dolomites, such as the Brenta group, the Rosengarten, the Pale di San Martino, the Sella and, obvioulsy, the queen of them all, the Marmolada. The trip will be documented with photos, route topos and vide interviews with the first ascentionists. And despite the unstable weather, "DoloMitiche - outdoor works of art" is in full swing and five routes are already online.
Orso Grigio, Croz dell’Altissimo, Brenta Centrale
Via Tuoni e Fulmini, Maerins, Val San Nicolò
Via Leviti-Nemela, Parete Est, Catinaccio Centrale
Via Innocenti Evasioni , Cima Susat, Brenta Meridionale
THE ROUTES
Via "della Soddisfazione", Cima d'Ambiez, Brenta Meridionale
(svil. 400m / grade 6° / established by A. Bosetti, E. Orlandi, L. Rigotti, E.Salvaterra in July 1982)
Via "Innocenti Evasioni", Cima Susat, Brenta Meridionale
(svil. 300m / grade 9° / established by D. Bonvecchio, A.S tenico & M. Giovannazzi in 1991)
Via "Elisir di Giovinezza", Brenta Alta, Brenta Centrale
(svil. 600m / grade 6°+ / established by D. Sebastiani, V. Chin & M. Cagol in 1988)
Via "Rovereto", Campanil Basso, Brenta Centrale
(svil. 380m / grade 7°+ (or 6° & A2) / established by A. Aste & M. Navasa in September 1961)
Via "Maestri", Cima della Farfalla, Brenta Centrale
(svil. 380m / grade 8° / established by C. Maestri & C. Claus in July 1967)
Via "Orso Grigio", Croz dell'Altissimo, Brenta Centrale
(svil. 800m / grade 7°, A2 / established by E. Covi & M. Pegoretti in 1989)
Via "L'occhio che vide rosso", Pilastro dell'Orso, Brenta Settentrionale
(svil. 270m / grade 7b / established by R. Larcher, F. Leoni & M. Cagol in July 1997)
Via "Moulin Rouge", Roda de Vael, Catinaccio Meridionale
(svil. 450m / grade 8°+ / established by C. Hainz & O. Celva in June 2002)
Via "Rosa Selvatica", Torre Finestra, Catinaccio Meridionale
(svil.200m / grade 9° / established by O. Celva & K. Ausserdorfer in summer 2007)
Via "Leviti-Nemela", Parete Est Catinaccio Centrale
(svil. 580m / grade 7°+ / established by A. Leviti & I. Nemela in August 1973)
Via "Cesare Danese", Cima Margherita, Brenta Centrale
(svil.600m. grade 6°+ & A2 – o 6C / established by H. Steinkotter & Vitty Frismon in September 1973)
Via "Battisti-Weiss" allo Spiz dela Roa de Ciampiè
(svil. 500m, grade 6°+ & A1 - o 7C+ / established by G. Battisti & T. Weiss in August 1973)
Via "Il canto del Cigno", Piramide Armani, Vallaccia
(svil. 500m / grade 8+° / established by G. Maffei & P. Leoni in July 1986)
Via "Messner", Cima della Madonna, Pale di S.Martino
(svil. 300m / grade 5°+ / established by R. Messner & G. Messner in summer 1968)
Via "Il Canto del Magnificat", Sass Pordoi, Gruppo del Sella
(svil. 1000m / grade 9°- / established by N. Tondini & R. Parolari in 2003)
Via "Tuoni & fulmini", Maerins, Val S. Nicolò.
(svil. 200m / grade 7b+ / established by Bruno Pederiva, Roberto Bassi & Heinz Mariacher in 1985)
Via "Caries", Cima del Dente, Gruppo del Sassolungo
(300m / 9° / established by A. Holzknecht & K. Unterkircher in 2003)
Via "Specchio di Sara", Marmolada South Face
(500m / 9° / established by M. Giordani & R. Manfrini in August 1988)
Via "Tempi modernissimi", Sasso delle Undici, Marmolada
(300m / 9°+ / established by Heinz Mariacher & Luisa Jovane in summer 1986)
Via "Dolce Sorpresa", Cima Wilma, Pale San Martino
(300m, 6° established by M. Zanolla & M. Lott in September 1982)
Via "Skyluke for Alex", Cima Canali, Pale di S. Martino
(300m / 7b / established by R. Scarian & L. Boninsegna in summer 2009)
Via "Hilde", Pilastro Konrad, Ombretta
(250m/ 6c / established by E. Boldrin, G. Damian & A.G risenti in 2006)
Thanks to the sponsors who have supported this project: Trentino, Millet, Scarpa
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