The routesClimbing routes
Lucertolaia - Lastoni di Formin, Pilastro di sinistra
VIII. 7a+, VIII
Lucertolaia on Lastoni di Formin in the Italian Dolomites is a route with a both traditional and modern feel to it, almost Californian with belays that are mainly bolted and the pitches that need protecting with trad gear as they...
Madre Roccia - Marmolada d'Ombretta
8b
Madre Roccia climbs the right side of Specchio di Sara on the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites). The route was first ascenedd between 2022 and 2023 by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani, with difficulties up to...
Magic Fox - Torre dei Sabbioni
7a
Beautiful, logial and direct climbing up the SW Face of Torre dei Sabbioni. The route shares the first 3 meters of Diretta Livanos beore continuting directly up the obvious cracks towards the series of corners.
Mai molar - Tofana di Rozes
7a+
Route first ascended from the ground up using 10mm stainless steel bolts. Although not top end, the difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend, as well as long quickdraws...
Mastro Lindo - Avancorpo del Gran Vernel
7a + (A1)
First ascended from the ground-up in 2007 with stainless steel bolts, Mastro Lindo takes a line to the right of Linea d'ombra. The second pitch is hard but well protected, all remaining pitches are fun up a series of pockets...
Mente Demente - Spiz de la Lastia
VII+ R3/IV
Mente Demente climbs up the righthand side of the face, between the routes Anita (Massarotto-Salvestro 1984) and Massarotto - Bellin - Sansonne - Zonta (1992). The start is situated on the long grassy ledge that cuts across the wall, next...
Momento Libero - Sasso Rosso
8a
The route climbs straight through the yellow section, clearly visible from San Gaetano di Valstagna (Valbrenta). Momento Libero is pleasant routerecommended to those who want to climb off the beaten track. The route offers both technnicaly slabs and steep overhangs...
Multicolor - Monte Petorgnon
7a+
Multicolor is the first route on Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper, established with bolts except for the characteristic crack pitch which takes trad gear. The route climbs smooth black Dolomite slabs and then continues up the overhanging face. At present...
Nikibi - Lastoni di Formin, Torrione Marcella
6b+
A modern bolt route first ascended from the ground which climbs the smooth slabs of the tower. The route ascends a compact vertical rock face and offers great mid-grade climbing. Given the route's difficulty, the bolts and beauty, Nikibi is...
Oasi - Col Becchei
5+/6a
Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...
Occhi d'Acqua - Torre del Formenton
II° S3 7b
Outstanding climbing in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. The route climbs smooth slabs immediately to the left of the classic 1968 Gogna route, and offer technical climbing up rock reminiscent of that found on Marmolada or in the Rätikon. The route...
Opus Pocus - Piz Seràuta
8a max
Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro,...
Oro e carbone - Mur del Pissadu'
7a
This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur del Pissadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and...
Paolo Amedeo - Lastoni di Formin, Torrione Marcella
5
A modern route which, given it’s grade, good protection and excellent rock, is destined to become a classic. The route takes trad pro but the belays were bolted on lead and the pitches contain numerous pegs, nevertheless take a selection...
Parole e pensieri - Torrione Zesta (Tofana di Mezzo)
max 6°+ o A0
Parole e pensieri - words and thoughts - climbs good rock up the 250m steep face which is clearly visible from the cable car which leads from Cortina to Ra Valles.
Pilastro Parmenide - Cima dell’Auta Orientale
Difficult and exposed climbing leads through the yellow eastern pillar of Cima dell’Auta, nicknamed “Pilastro Parmenide” after the famous philosopher Elea. The first section climbs free a series of slabs to the base ledge of the rock face, then continues...
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