Oro e carbone - Mur de Pisciadù
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Planetmountain
This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur de Pisciadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and there are two 7a pitches.
The Sella group is surrounded by four passes: Pordoi, Campolongo, Gardena and Sella. Leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara.
AccessApproach by starting up the Val Setus before turning off left up a track for the via ferrata Tridentina. Before reaching two obvious boulders walk steeply up the scree to the Torre, heading towards the large corner in the center of the face. Oro e carbone starts on top of a small buttress, at the base of a yellow streak a few hundred meters to the right of Ottovolante.
DescentFrom the summit scramble quickly to the Sella plateau, then walk southwards to reach the path that leads to the rifugio Pissadù. Before reaching the rifugio, turn right down the Val Setus to the car.
Gear12 quickdraws, some small wires, Camalot N° 1 and some small Metolius (1-2-3).
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