Inglourious Basterds - Speckkar
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Inglourious Basterds: Dieter Stöhr on pitch 5.
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Reinhold Scherer & Dieter Stöhr 08/2009
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
240m
Difficulty
7a
Period
The face receives the sun from 11:30 onwards, meaning it can be climbed even in late autumn
Route
Finest quality crack and slab climbing up the obvious crack system circa 15m to the left of the route Buhldurchschlag. Inglourious Basterds alternates fine cracks with nice face climbing and the steeply overhanging third pitch contains the crux, a single hard move with a fist jam, that can only be tricked with a Camalot #1. Success tastes even better with a beer at the Hallerangerhaus!
Getting there
From Innsbruck drive to Hall in Tirol. Access
Two options.
A. Drive through the Halltall (4€ toll) and over Lafatscher Joch towards the Hallerangerhaus, circa 2 hours. Fit cyclists can cycle to just beneath the col. This doesn't reduce the walk-in much, but during the (very demanding) descent one saves 45 minutes.
B. Cycle from Scharnitz (4€ parking) over the Hinterautal, past the Kastenalm to the Hallerangerhaus. Most push their bikes along the steep ascent to the Kastenalm. Although this approach is longer (at least 2.5 hours), the return is simple and takes circa 45 - 60 minutes.
The Speckkar can be seen south of the Hallerangerhaus mountain hut and is reached in circa 15 minutes.
Start 3m to the left of the plaque. Itinerary
P1: 4- (40m)
P2: 6a+ (35m)
P3: 7a (30m)
P4: 6a+ (35m)
P5: 6c+ (35m)
P6: 6b (35m)
P7: 5c+ (30m) Descent
Abseil down the route. Please do not remove the abseil carabiners. Use the two abseil stances from the overhang straight down then slightly northwards; 35m abseils, or finish classically up left to the Schnittelwänden. beware of large loose block to the left of the 6th belay. Gear
11 quickdraws, either a Camalot #1 or Friend# 3, 70m single rope for the abseil Notes
No pegs in the first pitch.
Take care not to dislodge rocks when climbing or abseiling, as hikers walk directly beneath the route.
From Innsbruck drive to Hall in Tirol. Access
Two options.
A. Drive through the Halltall (4€ toll) and over Lafatscher Joch towards the Hallerangerhaus, circa 2 hours. Fit cyclists can cycle to just beneath the col. This doesn't reduce the walk-in much, but during the (very demanding) descent one saves 45 minutes.
B. Cycle from Scharnitz (4€ parking) over the Hinterautal, past the Kastenalm to the Hallerangerhaus. Most push their bikes along the steep ascent to the Kastenalm. Although this approach is longer (at least 2.5 hours), the return is simple and takes circa 45 - 60 minutes.
The Speckkar can be seen south of the Hallerangerhaus mountain hut and is reached in circa 15 minutes.
Start 3m to the left of the plaque. Itinerary
P1: 4- (40m)
P2: 6a+ (35m)
P3: 7a (30m)
P4: 6a+ (35m)
P5: 6c+ (35m)
P6: 6b (35m)
P7: 5c+ (30m) Descent
Abseil down the route. Please do not remove the abseil carabiners. Use the two abseil stances from the overhang straight down then slightly northwards; 35m abseils, or finish classically up left to the Schnittelwänden. beware of large loose block to the left of the 6th belay. Gear
11 quickdraws, either a Camalot #1 or Friend# 3, 70m single rope for the abseil Notes
No pegs in the first pitch.
Take care not to dislodge rocks when climbing or abseiling, as hikers walk directly beneath the route.
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Beauty
First ascent
Reinhold Scherer & Dieter Stöhr 08/2009
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
240m
Difficulty
7a
Period
The face receives the sun from 11:30 onwards, meaning it can be climbed even in late autumn
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Karwendel climbing: new routes on the Halleranger - Speckkar Three new alpine multi-pitch routes by Reinhold Scherer and Dieter Stöhr on the Karwendel, Austria.