Vento d’estate - Monte Gallo
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Vento d’estate: G. Iurato on pitch 5
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Max Flaccavento, Giorgio Iurato 03-04/2010. RP 08/05/2010
Orientation
West
Length
290m
Height
562m
Difficulty
6c
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Vento d’estate is a nice and interesting modern route with an alpine feel which takes a series of slabs and corners on the righthandside of the West face of Monte Gallo to reach Pizzo della Sella.
Although the route isn't difficult by modern standards, the climbing is nevertheless demanding and never straightforward which requires a fair degree of preparation.
The bolts need to be integrated with trad gear and although at times some sections can be fairly delicate and run-out, on the whole the route is great fun on excellent rock. The panorama is stupendous in this small Sicilian paradise.
The route is dedicated to the Palerma Mountain Rescue service.
Although the route isn't difficult by modern standards, the climbing is nevertheless demanding and never straightforward which requires a fair degree of preparation.
The bolts need to be integrated with trad gear and although at times some sections can be fairly delicate and run-out, on the whole the route is great fun on excellent rock. The panorama is stupendous in this small Sicilian paradise.
The route is dedicated to the Palerma Mountain Rescue service.
Getting there
From Palermo reach Sferracavallo, the famous seaside resort. Access
After having parked the car walk along via Barcarello along the seaside to reach the tip of Barcarello and the start of Capo Gallo. Continue along the gravel track into the nature reserve, past the entrance and after circa 100m bear right up the path “Sentiero del Gabbiano”. This leads through a nice forest up hairpin-bends to a small road which cuts across the mountain at half-height beneath the rock faces. Walk along this road to directly beneath the obvious start of the route, then scramble up the steep slope to reach the base (allow 40 minutes for the walk-in). Itinerary
P1: 6c
P2: 6a
P3: 6b+
P4: 6b
P5: 6a
P6: 5c+
P7: 4a
P8: 6b+
P9: 6a Descent
Possibile abseil down the route. If you abseil, apart from the obligatory traverse on P7, skip belay 6 as marked on the diagram.
Gear
Two 55/60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, a complete set of friends and small sized nuts, Kevlar threads and helmet. Notes
During the hot months and above all in summer this area and the entire Monte Gallo is prone to ticks. Wear long, bright coloured pants to make sure you notice them in time.
From Palermo reach Sferracavallo, the famous seaside resort. Access
After having parked the car walk along via Barcarello along the seaside to reach the tip of Barcarello and the start of Capo Gallo. Continue along the gravel track into the nature reserve, past the entrance and after circa 100m bear right up the path “Sentiero del Gabbiano”. This leads through a nice forest up hairpin-bends to a small road which cuts across the mountain at half-height beneath the rock faces. Walk along this road to directly beneath the obvious start of the route, then scramble up the steep slope to reach the base (allow 40 minutes for the walk-in). Itinerary
P1: 6c
P2: 6a
P3: 6b+
P4: 6b
P5: 6a
P6: 5c+
P7: 4a
P8: 6b+
P9: 6a Descent
Possibile abseil down the route. If you abseil, apart from the obligatory traverse on P7, skip belay 6 as marked on the diagram.
Gear
Two 55/60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, a complete set of friends and small sized nuts, Kevlar threads and helmet. Notes
During the hot months and above all in summer this area and the entire Monte Gallo is prone to ticks. Wear long, bright coloured pants to make sure you notice them in time.
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Beauty
First ascent
Max Flaccavento, Giorgio Iurato 03-04/2010. RP 08/05/2010
Orientation
West
Length
290m
Height
562m
Difficulty
6c
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
