Skyluke for Alex - Torre Gialla - Cima Canali
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Skyluke for Alex
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Riccardo Scarian, Luca Boninsegna, 2009
By
Riccardo Scarian
Orientation
West
Length
300m
Height
2850m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
6c/7a
Elegant and beautiful route, exposed and with continuous difficulties.
Getting there
From Fiera di Primiero ascend Val Canali to the hotel/restaurant La Ritonda, from here continue on foot for 1.5 hours along path #709 to reach Rifugio Pradidali (www.rifugiopradidali.it). Access
From Rifugio Pradidali ascend the Cima Canali normal route up the gully (30 minutes) to the base of Torre Gialla (cairn marker and green thread at the start of the route). Itinerary
P1: The pedestal 25m V°
P2: Ah good morning 30m 6c (2 bolts)
P3: The classic 30m V+ (1 bolt)
P4: Long and yellow 50m 6c+ (6 bolts)
P5: The traverse 20m 6c (2 bolts)
P6: Dirty 30 mt. 6c+ (5 bolts)
P7: The eagle learnt to fly 25m 7a (4 bolts)
P8: Too many pocketsi 35m 7b (5 bolts)
P9: Easy scramble 50m V° (1 bolt)
P10: Crest 50m IV° Descent
Abseil down the route (clip some bolts during the descent on the steepest pitches) or descend down the Torre Gialla Normal Route. Notes
From Fiera di Primiero ascend Val Canali to the hotel/restaurant La Ritonda, from here continue on foot for 1.5 hours along path #709 to reach Rifugio Pradidali (www.rifugiopradidali.it). Access
From Rifugio Pradidali ascend the Cima Canali normal route up the gully (30 minutes) to the base of Torre Gialla (cairn marker and green thread at the start of the route). Itinerary
P1: The pedestal 25m V°
P2: Ah good morning 30m 6c (2 bolts)
P3: The classic 30m V+ (1 bolt)
P4: Long and yellow 50m 6c+ (6 bolts)
P5: The traverse 20m 6c (2 bolts)
P6: Dirty 30 mt. 6c+ (5 bolts)
P7: The eagle learnt to fly 25m 7a (4 bolts)
P8: Too many pocketsi 35m 7b (5 bolts)
P9: Easy scramble 50m V° (1 bolt)
P10: Crest 50m IV° Descent
Abseil down the route (clip some bolts during the descent on the steepest pitches) or descend down the Torre Gialla Normal Route. Notes
The route is dedicated to Alex Bettega, a 16-year-old who left us prematurely a short while ago. He really loved climbing and the mountains in his backyard. Ciao Alex.
Riccardo and Luca
Comments
21/09/2013 robert roithinger
fine line up the pillar, well done with some courage. but that is not a 5 star route compared to a lot of others we have done so far in the dolos. therefore we give it only 3 stars due to quite a lot of loose stuff, although most are small things you can easily take a fall with a flake or a crumbling pocket or so. grading o.k. but on the soft side. done o.s. by reini and me last week.
Beauty
First ascent
Riccardo Scarian, Luca Boninsegna, 2009
By
Riccardo Scarian
Orientation
West
Length
300m
Height
2850m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
6c/7a
Routes in the same mountain group