Mangoustine Scatophage - Verdon
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Alberto de Giuli, Mountain Guide
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Mangoustine Scatophage: Francesco Piardi climbing the second pitch
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
M.Bonnon, Bernard Gorgeon, D. Gorgeon, Jacques Keller, J. Nosley, 1979
By
Alberto de Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
150m
Height
1000m
Difficulty
6c+
Period
Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.
Beautiful route up superb slabs, not polished in the slightest. The first pitch is fairly run-out at times and climbs up a series of small pockets and 'gouttes d'eau', this is then followed by an exposed 5+/6a second pitch traverse. The third pitch climbs a smooth yellow slab and contains the crux but this can be aided (AO). Belay on the magnificent Coriolis tree, which seems like a true work of art! The difficulties ease off on the final two pitches but the climbing remains first-class.
Getting there
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.
From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes. Access
From the Belvédeère de la Carelle walk left to Dalles Grisses and with three abseils (40m, 30m, 55m) reach the Jardin des Ecureuils. Walk right past the obvious Pilier des Ecureuils to the base of the route. Itinerary
P1: 6c
P2: 6a
P3: 6c+
P4: 5b
P5: 5b Descent
Reequipped in 1991 Gear
Two 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws. Maps/Bibliography
"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jamin
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.
From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes. Access
From the Belvédeère de la Carelle walk left to Dalles Grisses and with three abseils (40m, 30m, 55m) reach the Jardin des Ecureuils. Walk right past the obvious Pilier des Ecureuils to the base of the route. Itinerary
P1: 6c
P2: 6a
P3: 6c+
P4: 5b
P5: 5b Descent
Reequipped in 1991 Gear
Two 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws. Maps/Bibliography
"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jamin
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Beauty
First ascent
M.Bonnon, Bernard Gorgeon, D. Gorgeon, Jacques Keller, J. Nosley, 1979
By
Alberto de Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
150m
Height
1000m
Difficulty
6c+
Period
Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.
Routes in the same mountain group
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