La lingua pura - Monte Monaco
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Albert Leichtfried
1 / 4
Planetmountain
La lingua pura is perhaps my finest multi-pitch route to date. The route quality is outstanding and alternates a series of tufas and compact corners to climb the impressive North Face of Monte Monaco high above San Vito lo Capo and the beautiful Mediterranean Sea.
The roof located at circa 120m is the crux and is climbed via a series of tufas and knobs to reach the lip and a hidden thank-god crimp, positioned just where it needs to be!
From San Vito lo Capo drive to the obvious Monte Monaco. Park the car at the northern entry to Camping la Pineta.
AccessWalk to the North Face and the base of the route in just 15 minutes. The route starts left of an obvious grey pillar. The route name is written at the start.
ItineraryP1: 6b, 40m, 4 bolts
P2: 6c+, 35m, 6 bolts
P3: 6b+, 25m, 6 bolts
P4: 7a, 20m, 6 bolts
P5: 7c, 15m, 5 bolts
P6: 6c, 20m, 4 bolts
P7: 6a+, 20m, 4 bolts
P8: 5b, 25m, 1 bolt
Walk down the south face in 45 minutes, some grade II scramble.
GearCams 0.4 - 4, a set of small nuts, 15 quickdraws, slings.
NotesAccommodation in Custonaci, Cornino and San Vito lo Capo.
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