La lingua pura - Monte Monaco
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Albert Leichtfried
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La lingua pura: Albert Leichtfried climbing through the crux roof of La lingua pura. Photo Klaus Kranebitter
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair ground up 10/2009. 1st redpoint: Albert Leichtfried, 01/11/2009
By
Albert Leichtfried
Orientation
North
Length
200m
Difficulty
7c
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Period
Autumn, spring
Route
La lingua pura is perhaps my finest multi-pitch route to date. The route quality is outstanding and alternates a series of tufas and compact corners to climb the impressive North Face of Monte Monaco high above San Vito lo Capo and the beautiful Mediterranean Sea.
The roof located at circa 120m is the crux and is climbed via a series of tufas and knobs to reach the lip and a hidden thank-god crimp, positioned just where it needs to be!
The roof located at circa 120m is the crux and is climbed via a series of tufas and knobs to reach the lip and a hidden thank-god crimp, positioned just where it needs to be!
Getting there
From San Vito lo Capo drive to the obvious Monte Monaco. Park the car at the northern entry to Camping la Pineta. Access
Walk to the North Face and the base of the route in just 15 minutes. The route starts left of an obvious grey pillar. The route name is written at the start. Itinerary
P1: 6b, 40m, 4 bolts
P2: 6c+, 35m, 6 bolts
P3: 6b+, 25m, 6 bolts
P4: 7a, 20m, 6 bolts
P5: 7c, 15m, 5 bolts
P6: 6c, 20m, 4 bolts
P7: 6a+, 20m, 4 bolts
P8: 5b, 25m, 1 bolt Descent
Walk down the south face in 45 minutes, some grade II scramble. Gear
Cams 0.4 - 4, a set of small nuts, 15 quickdraws, slings. Notes
Accommodation in Custonaci, Cornino and San Vito lo Capo.
From San Vito lo Capo drive to the obvious Monte Monaco. Park the car at the northern entry to Camping la Pineta. Access
Walk to the North Face and the base of the route in just 15 minutes. The route starts left of an obvious grey pillar. The route name is written at the start. Itinerary
P1: 6b, 40m, 4 bolts
P2: 6c+, 35m, 6 bolts
P3: 6b+, 25m, 6 bolts
P4: 7a, 20m, 6 bolts
P5: 7c, 15m, 5 bolts
P6: 6c, 20m, 4 bolts
P7: 6a+, 20m, 4 bolts
P8: 5b, 25m, 1 bolt Descent
Walk down the south face in 45 minutes, some grade II scramble. Gear
Cams 0.4 - 4, a set of small nuts, 15 quickdraws, slings. Notes
Accommodation in Custonaci, Cornino and San Vito lo Capo.
Comments
07/04/2010 Mirto e Terrone
Bel viaggio con tratti entusiasmanti e sempre facilmente proteggibili verso un fantastico tetto perfettamente orizzontale che si presta ad una bella arrampicata che lascia anche il tempo ad una rapida e consigliata occhiata verso il basso prima di godersi il meritato e meraviglioso panorama in sosta
Beauty
First ascent
Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair ground up 10/2009. 1st redpoint: Albert Leichtfried, 01/11/2009
By
Albert Leichtfried
Orientation
North
Length
200m
Difficulty
7c
Obligatory difficulty
6c
Period
Autumn, spring
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
25/11/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo...