The routes

Climbing routes

39
Routes in archive
Jeo
Jeo - Col de Stagn, Sella
7a
Jeo is the latest modern sport climb to be established up the East Face of Col de Stagn, after the hugely popular Eva Dorme (6b+ max) and its easier neighbour Ludomania (6a max). Of the three routes currently on this face,...
Malsiner Moroder
Malsiner Moroder - Fourth Sella Tower
V/VI
This classic route is not particularly popular, but unjustifiably so. It takes a central line up the solid yellow grey slabs and the middle pitches are very beautiful indeed. Well worth repeating
Non c'è due senza te
Non c'è due senza te - Piz Ciavazes
7b
Interesting route put up by local mountain guide Renato Bernard and Petra Bernard in 2005. despite being entirely equipped with bolts, the route requires alpine experience due to the quality of the rock and the run-out gear.
Non ci resta che piangere
Non ci resta che piangere - Piz Ciavazes
7a/A2
The route climbs between the obvious corner taken by Via Zeni and the arete of Via Italia 61, up a series of slabs and two alrge overhangs. The climbing is technical on yellow and grey limestone which is almost...
Oro e carbone
Oro e carbone - Mur del Pissadu'
7a
This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur del Pissadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and...
Ottovolante
Ottovolante - Torre Brunico
7a
The climbing is both technical and strenuous, but never excessively so, on excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead and even though a rack isn't really necessary, some small wires may be found useful. The numerous ledges ensure that the...
Piccolo Principe
Piccolo Principe - Punta di Larsei
7a+, R2/3. (ED+)
Piccolo Principe is a mix between traditional and modern: traditional for the protection (pegs and natural pro along the pitches, bolts on the belays), and modern due to the direct line which searches for the beauty of climbing up the...
Plitschka
Plitschka - Torre delle Mésules Est
7
This is a nice route, somewhat harder and less repeated than Geo and Brunsin. Two bolts protect the cruxes, but the fifth pitch, which takes natural pro, is not to be underestimated.
Regenbogen
Regenbogen - Torre delle Mesules Est
7
The route climbs up the left-hand side of the rock face and reaches the top of an obvious detached tower before continuing up a nice vertical face. Regenbogen has one section which is more demanding than nearby  - and more...
Roberta + diedro Buhl
Roberta + diedro Buhl - Piz Ciavazes
6a+
Beautiful combination that starts up the first half of Roberta 89 to then continue along Via Buhl. The route follows a logical line up featured slab to a large corner located in the middle of the Piz Ciavazes face. All...
Roberta 83
Roberta 83 - Piz Ciavazes
7a
Exciting climb up excellent rock. The second half is vertical and exposed and ascends yellowish-black pocketed rock and the final two pitches, in particular, are extremely beautiful.  After a second difficult pitch, the difficulties tend to be in the 6b...
Scharfe Helene
Scharfe Helene - Crep de Boè
VIII-
Great climb up a series of slabs, corners, cracks and roofs up Crep de Boè established over two days in September 2013 by Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner.
Schirata
Schirata - Piz Ciavazes
IX-
Beautiful route established in winter 2011/12 by Manuel Stuflesser and Martin Riegler. Located between the routes Via Zeni and Non ci resta che piangere, the third pitch was established by unknown climbers.
Schubert
Schubert - Piz Ciavazes
VI-
The Schubert is a classic route, one of the most popular on this wall, that takes a long line along the arête to the right of the large chimney that splits the Piz Ciavazes face in half. The belays are bolted...
Semifreddo
Semifreddo - Punta Aurelia, Sass Pordoi
IX
Semifreddo climbs to the left of the classic Via Piaz, established by Tita Piaz and Sandro del Torso on 27 September 1933. After an easy approach pitch the route breaches the obvious roof with its crux pitch graded IX; the...
Traumpfeiler
Traumpfeiler - Traumpfeiler, Cansla, Mëisules dala Biesces
7a
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams. The name couldn’t be more appropriate for this famous climb that, given its beauty, also lent its name to the magnificent limestone missile located beneath the Sella Pass in the Italian Dolomites. Bolted from above...


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