Schirata - Piz Ciavazes
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Manuel Stuflesser
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Schirata: Martin Riegler beneath the rock face
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Manuel Stuflesser, Martin Riegler winter 2011/12. FFA: 31/03/2012 Stuflesser & Riegler
By
Manuel Stuflesser
Orientation
South
Length
235m
Difficulty
IX-
Route
Beautiful route established in winter 2011/12 by Manuel Stuflesser and Martin Riegler. Located between the routes Via Zeni and Non ci resta che piangere, the third pitch was established by unknown climbers.
Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
Walk up the path and head towards the obvious arete and roofs breached by Via Italia 61. Reach the base of the arete and scramble up the grassy pedestal on the left, keeping close to the rock face. Itinerary
P1: II, 55m
P2: VIII-, 40m
P3: VII+, 20m
P4: VIII-, 25m
P5: VI, 20m
P6: VII, 15m
P7: IX-, 25m
P8: V, 35m Descent
From the ledge at mid height traverse right and scramble back down to the pass. Gear
The route is protected by some in-situ pegs and bolts. Nuts and camming devices needed
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
Walk up the path and head towards the obvious arete and roofs breached by Via Italia 61. Reach the base of the arete and scramble up the grassy pedestal on the left, keeping close to the rock face. Itinerary
P1: II, 55m
P2: VIII-, 40m
P3: VII+, 20m
P4: VIII-, 25m
P5: VI, 20m
P6: VII, 15m
P7: IX-, 25m
P8: V, 35m Descent
From the ledge at mid height traverse right and scramble back down to the pass. Gear
The route is protected by some in-situ pegs and bolts. Nuts and camming devices needed
See all photos
Comments
17/08/2012 Alex Walpoth
Ho ripetuto la via insieme al mio amico Martin Dejori. Purtroppo siamo stati un po' delusi, soprattutto per la roccia assai friabile. Bello comunque il tiro chiave, molto atletico! Con la valutazione siamo d'accordo tranne per il 3. tiro (un po' difficile per 7 ).
Beauty
First ascent
Manuel Stuflesser, Martin Riegler winter 2011/12. FFA: 31/03/2012 Stuflesser & Riegler
By
Manuel Stuflesser
Orientation
South
Length
235m
Difficulty
IX-
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
20/04/2012 - Climbing
Schirata, new route on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites by Stuflesser and Riegler In winter 2011-12 Manuel Stuflesser and Martin Riegler established Schirata (XI-, 235m), a new route up Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites). The report by Stuflesser.