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Schubert - Piz Ciavazes

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Schubert

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

P. Schubert & K. H. Matthies 1967

Planetmountain

Orientation

Length

200m

Difficulty

VI-

Obligatory difficulty

VI-

Route

The Schubert is a classic route, one of the most popular on this wall, that takes a long line along the arête to the right of the large chimney that splits the Piz Ciavazes face in half. The belays are bolted and the route is well-equipped throughout with in-situ pegs.

Getting there

From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left.

Access

From the car park follow a small path up to the wall. Head towards the obvious large chimney: the route starts up a small yellow corner capped by a roof about 20m to the left.

Descent

Reach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards Passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily.

Gear

A set of wires, kevlar threads and medium sized friends for the corner.

Piz Ciavazes, Sella group, Dolomites - Piz Ciavazes, Sella group, Dolomites

Via Schubert, Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites - Giovanni Canton climbing pitch 1 of 'Via Schubert' on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites

Via Schubert, Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites - Giovanni Canton repeating the 'Schubert' on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites

Via Schubert, Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites - Giovanni Canton climbing pitch 5 of 'Via Schubert' on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites

Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites - The impressive Piz Ciavazes, Sella group, Dolomites

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27/07/2011 Chris

Nice route, decent protection but few runouts on good rock. Supposed crux felt easier than other parts of the route. Leader should be comfortable on 6.

26/08/2009 Marco Gnaccarini

Fatta l'11 agosto 2009 Bella via con ottima roccia, soste ottime e chiodata dove serve. Un po' unta ma pensavo peggio. Peccato che è corta, infatti dopo siamo andati in falesia. Consigliata per la comodità d'accesso.

23/07/2007 Alessandro Vitali

Bella via e divertente nonostante che la roccia sia nella prima parte, a volte , un pò unta. La chiodatura è presente nei passaggi chiave della salita. Un grazie al mio compagno ed amico Andrea.Buon divertimento a tutti che la saliranno!

23/08/2006 renato sablich

Bella via abbastanza chiodata (i chiodi sono presenti dove necessario). Qualcuno non consente il moschettonaggio diretto e va passato un cordino. Un chiodo nel diedro iniziale ( utili friend medio - piccoli)o dadi medio/grossi). La prima metà offre difficoltà sostenute: il qrado si abbassa nella 2° metà e la roccia diventa ottima. Non si discute sul fatto che il primo tiro e in parte il secondo hanno appoggi decisamente scivolosi.

Beauty

First ascent

P. Schubert & K. H. Matthies 1967

Planetmountain

Orientation

Length

200m

Difficulty

VI-

Obligatory difficulty

VI-

Route

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