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Roberta 83 - Piz Ciavazes

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Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide

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Roberta 83: Evaristo Rizzotto on P5 . Photo Alberto De Giuli

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Roberto Platter & Luigi Felicetti 1983. FFA: Hanspeter Eisendle

Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide

Orientation

South

Length

250m

Difficulty

Obligatory difficulty

Route

Exciting climb up excellent rock. The second half is vertical and exposed and ascends yellowish-black pocketed rock and the final two pitches, in particular, are extremely beautiful. After a second difficult pitch, the difficulties tend to be in the 6b region. You can abseil quickly off the route (two 60m ropes) following the abseils marked on the topo.

Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
From the car park walk up the path which leads to the base of the mountain. Via Roberta 83 begins in the middle of the face, circa 30m to the left of Via Micheluzzi, and the route name is marked at the base. As you walk towards the face, aim for the horizontal roof 50m above the base. Itinerary
P1: 6a+, 30m
P2: 6a, 20m
P3: 6b, 30m
P4: 6a, 25m
P5: 6a, 15m
P6: 7a+, 20m
P7: 6a+, 35m
P8: 6b+, 30m
P9: 6b+, 40m Descent
5 abseils or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci. Gear
12 quickdraws. Single rope if you do not intend to abseil off. Notes
On the slab on pitch 6 climb to the right of the bolts. If you climb directly the route becomes 7b+/7c.

Rebolted byAlberto De Giuli and Renato Bernard (G.G.A.A.) in summer 2009. Thanks to Val di Fassa Climbing for having provided the gear.