Piccolo Principe - Punta di Larsei
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Piccolo Principe: Punta di Larsei – Sella, Dolomites
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Nicola Tondini & Dario Segato 5/08/04, 18/07/05, 31/08/05
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
S
Length
250m
Difficulty
7a+, R2/3. (ED+)
Route
Piccolo Principe is a mix between traditional and modern: traditional for the protection (pegs and natural pro along the pitches, bolts on the belays), and modern due to the direct line which searches for the beauty of climbing up the most compact sections of the wall. The route climbs to the left of the beautiful "Leviti-Nemela" (Aldo Leviti e Ivo Nemela 1973) and the more recent "Banda degli Onesti" (Eddy Boldrin).
Access
From Passo Pordoi continue by car to the Ossario. From here follow signs for 'Ferrata C.Piazzetta' until the path leads beanth Punta Larsei. The ferrata starts on the right on a detached pillar, while our route starts on the left in the centre of the wall, to the left of 'La banda degli onesti' and 'Leviti – Nemela'. Sling on two nuts and a peg just above mark the start. Itinerary
P1: 6c+, P2: 6c, P3: 4+, P4: 6c, P5: 6b+, P6: 6c+, P7: 6c, P8: 7a+ Descent
4 abseils along the route or on foot down the ferrata 'C.Piazzetta' Gear
Friends (up to 4 camelot), tricam, slings, two 60m ropes Notes
Pegs were placed along the pitches, bolts protect the belays (Raumer inox 8mm). On 31/08/05 Tondini and Segato comleted and freed the route (all pitches had been aided during the first ascent).
First free ascent: Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato 31/08/05
From Passo Pordoi continue by car to the Ossario. From here follow signs for 'Ferrata C.Piazzetta' until the path leads beanth Punta Larsei. The ferrata starts on the right on a detached pillar, while our route starts on the left in the centre of the wall, to the left of 'La banda degli onesti' and 'Leviti – Nemela'. Sling on two nuts and a peg just above mark the start. Itinerary
P1: 6c+, P2: 6c, P3: 4+, P4: 6c, P5: 6b+, P6: 6c+, P7: 6c, P8: 7a+ Descent
4 abseils along the route or on foot down the ferrata 'C.Piazzetta' Gear
Friends (up to 4 camelot), tricam, slings, two 60m ropes Notes
Pegs were placed along the pitches, bolts protect the belays (Raumer inox 8mm). On 31/08/05 Tondini and Segato comleted and freed the route (all pitches had been aided during the first ascent).
First free ascent: Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato 31/08/05
Comments
10/10/2009 norbert weiss
bella via.La roccia è bella anche se al primo momento guardando la parete non sembra. Il tipo di chiodatura è di stampo alpinistico,anche se chiodi sono sufficienti. Merita una ripetizione.Si scende anche con due corde da 55m lungo la via.
18/11/2007 fulminella
bravi x lo stile usato in apertura. adoro questo tipo di vie.richiede sempre un buon autocontrollo...sei sempre in forma e dario! ciao
26/07/2007 maurizio
Bellissima via.Roccia ottima tranne ultimo tiro.
Beauty
First ascent
Nicola Tondini & Dario Segato 5/08/04, 18/07/05, 31/08/05
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
S
Length
250m
Difficulty
7a+, R2/3. (ED+)
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
16/09/2005 - Climbing
Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato have made the first ascent of "Piccolo Principe" 250m, 8 pitches, max 7a+. on the south face of Punta dei Larsei, Sella, Dolomites.