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Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
12/06/2024 - Climbing
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up...
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70°...
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley...
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
02/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
Melloblocco 2024 is just a few days away and preparations are in full swing. From 8 to 11 May 2024 Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, will host the largest bouldering meeting in the world.
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
02/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
From 14-17 April 2024 Britain's Tom Livingstone and Slovenia's Gašper Pintar made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'The Great Wall' on the South Face of Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across...
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
18/04/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
15/04/2024 - Alpinism
Huge landslide on Piz Scerscen in Switzerland
On Sunday 14 April 2024, an estimated million cubic meters of debris collapsed on the north face of Piz Scerscen, the 3971m mountain located between the highly popular Piz Bernina and Piz Roseg on the Swiss-Italian border. No casualties occurred...
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
15/02/2024 - Alpinism
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
Joda Dolmans and Kristian Vindvik have made the first ascent of 'Full Pakke' (M5, WI6, R) at Bodø in northern Norway. Dolmans reports about the new mixed outing he describes as 'one of the best new winter routes that I’ve...
Big new mixed climb on Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites) by Nicola Castagna,  Francesco Salvaterra
12/02/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites) by Nicola Castagna, Francesco Salvaterra
On 25/01/2024 Nicola Castagna and Francesco Salvaterra made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Concha de la lora' on the north-east face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites). Salvaterra reports.
New Chironico parking & sleeping rules for 2024
07/02/2024 - Climbing
New Chironico parking & sleeping rules for 2024
New rules for parking and overnight stays have been implemented at Switzerland's top bouldering area Chironico. Climbers are asked to adhere to these regulations in order to safeguard future access to this premier Ticino bouldering area.
New ski descent on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc massif by Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry
New ski descent on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc massif by Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry
On 14/01/2024 Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the obvious gully on Capucin du Requin above the Vallée Blanche in the Mont Blanc massif.
Andrea Locatelli establishes Il bombarolo, 8c+ first ascent aged 13 in Italy
28/12/2023 - Climbing
Andrea Locatelli establishes Il bombarolo, 8c+ first ascent aged 13 in Italy
On 24 December 2023 Andrea Locatelli made the first ascent of 'Il bombarolo', a sport climb close to Bergamo in Italy route for which the 13-year-old climber has suggested the grade 8c+.
Fascinating Friulian Dolomites new mixed climb on Mount Duranno
26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Fascinating Friulian Dolomites new mixed climb on Mount Duranno
On 12/24/2024 Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon and Luca Vallata made the first ascent of ' Archi del Vento', a fascinating new mixed climb on the north face of the Naso del Monte Duranno (Carnic Prealps, Friulian Dolomites, Italy.

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