US Congress passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act

It has been a momentous week for climbing policy in the US, with two pivotal decisions taken that will safeguard climbing access across the country.

Firstly, the Expanding Public Lands Outdoor Recreation Experiences (EXPLORE) Act passed US Congress with unanimous consent, and is awaiting a presidential signature. This package of recreation bills will safeguard climbing access in Wilderness areas and, importantly, clarifies through the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing (PARC) act that fixed anchors (bolts, pins, slings) are appropriate in Wilderness.

Secondly, as a result of this decision, the National Park Service announced late Wednesday afternoon that it is discontinuing the development of its proposed fixed anchor guidance. This aimed to prohibit all existing slings, pins, and bolts in Wilderness areas until a time - and resource - intensive process designed to evaluate administrative exceptions determined whether they should stay in place or be removed. The NPS proposals would have impacted more than 50,000 routes in 28 states, including some of America’s most iconic climbs such as The Nose on El Capitan, big walls in Utah’s Zion National Park, adventures in Wyoming’s Wind River Range, historic climbs in Washington’s North Cascades, and many more.

The initial proposals were met with significant concern from climbers and organisations such as the American Alpine Club and the Access Fund, and interestingly the historic recreation package enjoyed widespread bipartisan support from legislators and a coalition of local climbing advocates from around the nation.

Access Fund and its partner organizations encouraged climbers around the country to speak up for sustainable Wilderness climbing access during the agencies’ 60 day comment period, and more than 12,000 people submitted comments to the two agencies.

The fact that the bill was passed in a single legislative session is a testament to the excellent work carried out by all the organisations and individuals over the last 10 years, and the growing power of the climbing advocacy movement in the US. This is a huge moment for American climbig and the bill now heads to the president’s desk for his signature.

To find out more visit accessfund.org, americanalpineclub.org