Sweeping climbing bans announced at Arapiles in Australia

Australia's Victorian Government and Parks Victoria recently announced far-reaching plans to ban climbing at the world-famous climbing area Mount Arapiles. The move, designed to protect Indigenous artifacts such as scarred trees and rock art, comes in the wake of numerous other bans in the Grampians and affects half of the climbs in the Arapiles. Crags that host treasured lines such as Punks in the Gym, the world's first 8b+ put up by Wolfgang Güllich in 1985, will no longer be accessible.

Local climbing expert Simon Carter described the news as "utterly devastating", adding that "Australia’s climbing culture is set to be destroyed." According to the Australian Climbing Association Victoria (ACAV), the organisation that represents the interests of climbers in the state of Victoria, the planned legislation will now include The Pharos, Yesterday Gully, Mitre Rock and even Tiptoe Ridge. The orginal bans on Declaration Crag, Tiger Wall, Castle Crag and plenty more remain in place. Furthermore, the historic Pines campground is to be closed. 

The formalisation of these bans is the result of a detailed 54-page report by Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network (GWRN), kept secret from the wider climbing community until only recently. The public have 28 days to respond to the draft management plan.

In response to these draconian measures, ACAV is asking all climbers to help by writing a submission to Parks Victoria about this draft management plan. "Get your friends to do the same. It doesn’t have to be perfect but it does need passion. We are fighting to keep one of the best climbing places on earth intact."

Info: savegrampiansclimbing.org