1527 News found

06/02/2023 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Francesco Ratti On 31/01/2023 the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of 'Wake Up' (425m, 7a/A2).

03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m)....

27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...

26/01/2023 - Alpinism
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice! Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont...

19/01/2023 - Alpinism
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of...

13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established...

03/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through...

23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers! An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in...

13/12/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.

06/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grandes Murailles new mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli On 27/11/2022 up the SE Face of the Grandes Murailles (Pennine Alps) François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Hyper Couloir delle Grandes Murailles - Couloir Franco Oberti'.

28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.

21/11/2022 - Alpinism
Kirti-Nose climbed in India's Garhwal Himalaya by Jonas Schild, Andy Schnarf, Stephan Siegrist In October 2022 Swiss alpinists Jonas Schild, Andy Schnarf, Stephan Siegrist made what is likely to be the first ascent of the Kirti-Nose in the Garhwal Himalaya of India via their line 'Between two Parties' (350m, 7b/A3).

18/11/2022 - Interviews
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first...

14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).

18/10/2022 - Alpinism
First Ascents on Pheker and Mirshikar Peak in Pakistan's Karakorum A joint Pakistani - French team comprised of Hassan Aljabbal, Adnan Khan, Sebastién Carniato and James Price has made the first traverse of Mirshikar Peak (5464m) in Pakistan's Karakoram. A day earlier, on 02/09/2022, Price opened a new route on...
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