New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher

On Saturday 10 December Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher climbed what in all likelihood will turn out to be the most coveted mixed line this winter in the Dolomites: Avatar. The new route is located on the large central ledge of the imposing NW face of Sass Pordoi about 50 meters to the right of Via Snowboard established on 19 January 2022 by Josef Hilpold and Norbert Weiss. One section of the second pitch had been climbed last winter by Manuel Baumgartner and Mark Oberlechner, who reached this part of the wall after having climbed the first pitch of Via Snowboard.

Gietl had noticed the icefall from across the valley at the Sella pass: while the first section of the wall up to the ledge was very dry, on the upper section an obvious drip had come into condition for the first time in many years.

Gietl quickly called his habitual climbing partner Oberbacher and last Thursday the pair embarked on a first attempt. Since the Pordoi cable car is currently closed, from the Pordoi Pass they reached the middle ledge on snowshoes, then traversed across this to reach the base of the drip after a 2-hour approach. A mere 20 meters higher, however, their attempt ground to a halt: Gietl was hit in the face by ice and the two made a hasty retreat. In hospital Gietl later received 8 stitches.

After a day's rest, the pair returned to the base of the climb on Saturday morning. This time things ran smoothly and four wonderful pitches led directly to a small cave where the ice ended. The first pitch is graded M6 and is consequently also the hardest, the second is graded WI4, the third WI5+ and the last WI4+.

As usual, no bolts were used, but a total of 6 pegs were placed: 3 at the belays, 1 on the first pitch and 2 on the fourth pitch. Furthermore, the route was protected with ice screws and a set of nuts and friends. The two South Tyrolean mountain guides then abseiled back down the the route, from an Abalakov for the first 60m abseil which led them to the first belay. A second abseil deposited them safely on the starting ledge.

The new route is called Avatar, in keeping therefore with Pandora established on the same face by Gietl and Vittorio Messini in 2019. The 38-year-old from the Ahrntal told planetmountain.com the new route "is an early Christmas present. Above all though it's a beautiful route in a breathtaking setting. Highly recommended!"

Simon Gietl ringrazia: Salewa, Neolit, Grivel, Komperdell, Keaxl-Board, Hotel Schwarzenstein, Lyo-Foot,  Südtirol, Lowa, Gloryfy

Links: www.simongietl.it, FB Simon Gietl

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