Grandes Murailles new mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli
After their season debut at the end of October on Central Breithorn, on 27 November Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Stefano Stradelli set their sights on the southeast face of Grandes Murailles where they established the mixed climb Hyper Couloir delle Grandes Murailles - Couloir Franco Oberti.
The new route is dedicated to the friend of Cervino Mountain Guides Franco Oberti and tackles an obvious line to the right of Banana Sprint, the mixed outing established in 2014 by Cazzanelli and the late Roberto Ferraris.
Cazzanelli explained "There are routes you've always looked at but you have to wait for the perfect moment." After receiving the forecast of "a perfect weather window", the trio set off from Cervinia and climbed the 900m route past difficulties estimated at AI 4+ M4. They abseiled down the line, rigging all the belays; in just under 14 hours they completed "a beautiful ascent in a wild environment, once again right above our doorstep."
The adventures in their backyard continued on 1 December when Cazzanelli, Perruquet and Francesco Ratti completed a route up the SE Face of Dent d'Hérens. This completes an attempt carried out in 2017 by Cazzanelli, Ratti and Roberto Ferraris. A detailed report about their Triplo Zero (600m, M7, WI4+) will follow in due course.
Cazzanelli thanks: La Sportiva, Julbo, Garmin, Grivel, Ski Trab and Cervinia Valtournenche Ski Paradise