200 News found
05/01/2017 - Alpinism
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.
31/12/2016 - Climbing
President Obama declares Bears Ears National Monument, Indian Creek and Utah climbing protected On 28 December 2016 the President of the United States Barack Obama established the Bears Ears National Monument. This proclamation permanently protects a region which includes Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Texas Canyon, and many other sandstone climbing areas...
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
20/10/2016 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes...
18/10/2016 - Climbing
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.
03/07/2016 - Climbing
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China Video: Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck, Liu Yongbang and Xiao Ting explore new rock climbs in Zhangjiajie National Park, China.
04/06/2016 - Climbing
Marcin Tomaszewski discovers Thor on Norway's Preikestolen On Preikestolen - Pulpit Rock - in Norway Marcin Tomaszewski from Poland has made the first ascent of the amazing single pitch climb Thor.
Update 30/06/2016: Working closely with the local climbing community, Tomaszewski has agreed to remove the bolts in...
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over...
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young...
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5...
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed...
07/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tancrède Melet, salut l'artiste Tancrède Melet, the French artist and acrobat perished on Tuesday 5 January 2016 at Diois in France.
17/12/2015 - Climbing
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch...
11/12/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.
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