The routes climbing photographers dream of

Sometimes climbing photographers relate so much with the performance they’re documenting that the climb in itself becomes their aim, their sought-after dream. This happened for example to famous Austrian photographer Heinz Zak, who in 1986 photographed his friend Wolfgang Güllich as he solo climbed across the Separate Reality roof (5.12a) in Yosemite. Zak was so blown away but what Güllich had just achieved that emulating this feat became his burning desire. On 25 May 2005 Zak realised his dream, unfortunately too late to share his joy with Güllich who, in 1992, died in a car accident.

This wasn’t a one-off occurrence though, because the same has happened to Swiss photographer Fred Moix who witnessed, behind the lens of his Nikon camera, the first ascent of Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco at the hands of Didier Berthod. Graded 8b/8b+, in 2003 this was considered the most difficult crack climb in Europe and the photos Moix took were published worldwide. At the time Moix, an osteopath by trade, was an excellent climber but certainly not capable of repeating a crack as difficult as Greenspit. Recently though he has trained hard, especially in bouldering where he’s climbed some outstanding problems, and on 7 October he finally managed to emulate his friend Berthod on Greenspit. It’s worth noting that this is only Moix’s seconda trad climb! Could this be the start of a new syndrome?

by Maurizio Oviglia

FRED MOIX ON INSTAGRAM

I usually didn't publish about my ascents these last few years but this time... On the 7th of October I've redpointed my 2nd trad route: the iconic and legendary roof crack Greenspit located in Rosone, Valle dell'Orco, Italy . It's kind of a love story for me with this route as I was belaying my close friend Didier Berthod in 2003 during the first historical pinkpoint ascent of Europa's hardest crack, and was lucky enough to shoot that special picture which went published worldwide just after. This route kind of launched Didier's career as a climber and totally rocketed my photographer's one on the side of my main passion as an osteopath. Climbing this amazing crack this fall was thus very special to me, added to the facts that a few weeks before I wasn't really knowing the colors and sizes of the protections yet (!) and that over the past 13 years it wasn't really often repeated despite the fame surrounding it. Feeling pretty proud to be part of the small club!⠀
⠀
The grade seems to oscillate around 8b/+ depending if you ask the few who sent the thing or the ones who tried. Looks like we can call it also E8 or 5.14-. Anyway in such cracks the difficulty is so personal due to the sizes of each climber's hands and fingers... But there is a strong consensus about the Beauty of the line!⠀

by Fred Moix

* Editor's note: pinkpoint = climbing a route with protection and quickdraws in situ. In 2005 Berthod reclimbed Greenspit, placing all the gear on lead.

RELATED NEWS
03/10/2005 - Didier Berthod cleans Greenspit, Valle dell Orco
09/06/2005 - Heinz Zak solos Separate Reality
02/10/2003 - Greenspit, Valle dell'Orco, for Didier Berthod