200 News found
21/05/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of Action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the...
07/05/2020 - Competitions
Rock Master 2020: world's most classic climbing competition cancelled Published below is the press release of the Arco Climbing Club announcing that, due to the Covid-19 crisis, Rock Master 2020 has been cancelled. After having laid the foundation with SportRoccia in 1985 and 1986, this annual climbing competition in...
09/03/2020 - Climbing
Climbing during the Covid-19 crisis With indoor gyms closed in Italy many climbers consider climbing outdoors. However, one must not ignore the fact that now, with many areas quarantined, it is paramount that everyone acts even more responsibly, for themselves but also for others. Happy...
18/11/2019 - Alpinism
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey An Italian (Gilberto Merlante), a Pole (Wojtek Szeliga) and a Turk (Tunc Findic) have made the first ascent of 500+, a multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Domuzucan Peak close to Geyikbayiri in Turkey.
03/08/2019 - Alpinism
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif French alpinists Antoine Bletton and Sébastien Moatti have established Armand Marley (350m, 6a+), a new rock climb up Gendarme du Cardinal in the Mont Blanc massif.
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the...
30/05/2019 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere...
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The...
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San...
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the...
14/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone Slovenians Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar and Briton Tom Livingstone have climbed Latok I (7145 m) in the Karakorum (Pakistan), This is only the second ascent of the mountain, after the first ascent carried out by a Japanese expedition in...
28/07/2018 - Competitions
Rock Master Lead World Cup, live streaming from Arco now Live streaming is currently underway from the Arco Rock Master that acts as World Cup Lead and Speed. At 18:00 the Speed finals, at 19:45 the Lead finals.
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering A day with Gioachino Gobbi in Courmayeur, examining the history of Grivel and alpinism in the brand new Espace Grivel that will be inaugurated on 5 August 2018.
18/07/2018 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi climbs to Chamonix at his feet Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his victory at Chamonix of the second stage of the Lead World Cup 2018.
04/05/2018 - Climbing
Melloblocco in Tour: time to dream, climb and boulder at Cresciano Cresciano, the great little bouldering paradise is hosting the Melloblocco in Tour bouldering meeting until Sunday 6 May. The time has come to dream and climb together.
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