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Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
21/05/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of Action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the...
Rock Master 2020: world's most classic climbing competition cancelled
07/05/2020 - Competitions
Rock Master 2020: world's most classic climbing competition cancelled
Published below is the press release of the Arco Climbing Club announcing that, due to the Covid-19 crisis, Rock Master 2020 has been cancelled. After having laid the foundation with SportRoccia in 1985 and 1986, this annual climbing competition in...
Climbing during the Covid-19 crisis
09/03/2020 - Climbing
Climbing during the Covid-19 crisis
With indoor gyms closed in Italy many climbers consider climbing outdoors. However, one must not ignore the fact that now, with many areas quarantined, it is paramount that everyone acts even more responsibly, for themselves but also for others. Happy...
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
18/11/2019 - Alpinism
500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey
An Italian (Gilberto Merlante), a Pole (Wojtek Szeliga) and a Turk (Tunc Findic) have made the first ascent of 500+, a multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Domuzucan Peak close to Geyikbayiri in Turkey.
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
03/08/2019 - Alpinism
Gendarme du Cardinal / New rock climb in Mont Blanc massif
French alpinists Antoine Bletton and Sébastien Moatti have established Armand Marley (350m, 6a+), a new rock climb up Gendarme du Cardinal in the Mont Blanc massif.
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the...
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere...
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The...
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San...
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the...
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
14/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I climbed after 40 years by Aleš Česen, Luka Stražar, Tom Livingstone
Slovenians Aleš Česen and Luka Stražar and Briton Tom Livingstone have climbed Latok I (7145 m) in the Karakorum (Pakistan), This is only the second ascent of the mountain, after the first ascent carried out by a Japanese expedition in...
Rock Master Lead World Cup, live streaming from Arco now
28/07/2018 - Competitions
Rock Master Lead World Cup, live streaming from Arco now
Live streaming is currently underway from the Arco Rock Master that acts as World Cup Lead and Speed. At 18:00 the Speed finals, at 19:45 the Lead finals.
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel: history, wonders and the first 200 years of mountaineering
A day with Gioachino Gobbi in Courmayeur, examining the history of Grivel and alpinism in the brand new Espace Grivel that will be inaugurated on 5 August 2018.
Stefano Ghisolfi climbs to Chamonix at his feet
18/07/2018 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi climbs to Chamonix at his feet
Interview with Stefano Ghisolfi after his victory at Chamonix of the second stage of the Lead World Cup 2018.
Melloblocco in Tour: time to dream, climb and boulder at Cresciano
04/05/2018 - Climbing
Melloblocco in Tour: time to dream, climb and boulder at Cresciano
Cresciano, the great little bouldering paradise is hosting the Melloblocco in Tour bouldering meeting until Sunday 6 May. The time has come to dream and climb together.

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