Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy

A SOUTH TYROLEAN TRILOGY by Florian Riegler

It all began in February 2007 when I pulled off the first repeat of Illuminati, at the time the hardest mixed icefall in the world. A breathtaking line, absolutely stunning! Just one detail bothered me though: the route is only 150m high and doesn’t reach a proper summit. So I started to wonder whether it would be possible to transpose such a steep and difficult route onto a "real" mountain. While climbing the North Face of Königsspitze in winter 2010 I happened to notice a wildly overhanging section nearby. just what I was looking for! This was the start of an adventure that almost ended up in me losing various fingers. But let’s take things one step at a time: Checkmate on the North Face of Königsspitze in 2010, Serac up Monte Zebrù in April 2015 and now, December 2015, Trinitas on the NW Face of Ortler.

Sunday 27 December, 2 am. Somewhat sleepily I try to have breakfast, then we set off. On our way to Solden we see the last party-goers outside the disco. While they’re still reveling, we realise that our adventure still lies ahead of us.

We reach Dreibrunnen at about 4.00 am. We walk past the chapel and make our way towards the Berglhütte mountain hut. Since there’s almost no snow gym shoes suffice. We gain height and slowly approach the fearsome, icy face. The terrain steepens, but we’re charged. Our aim is that thin sliver of ice to the right of the serac. We’re worried though by what awaits behind the ice as we that section of the face is hidden from view. Presumably a labyrinth of crevasses?

We start up the first meters, somewhat tense. Right at the start a dodgy section gets my heart racing. Then when we decide to rope up I drop all provisions down the steep gully. I’d lost my appetite anyway due to the tension - so we continue up since theses December days are short. Despite the difficult terrain our progress is better than expected and our hopes rise with every meter gained. Conditions are good: little snow, therefore hardly any avalanche danger and no rockfall.

The climbing crosses rock, ice and snow. We manage to protect the route with trad gear and ice screws and succeed in not leaving any gear in-situ. Things get tense as we don't know what lies behind the final curtain of ice. My tired forearms hack away at the last meters of glacier ice and I then spy around the arête. Less steep terrain and a good chance to exit the face. We carefully cross the glacier (mine) field. When we finally reckon we’re on safe ground, all of a sudden it happens: I disappear up to my hip into a crevasse. But Martin has kept the rope tight and, apart from the slight shock, I escape unharmed. We’re happy to leave the crevasses behind us and then traverse towards the summit ridge and the yearned-for sun.

After having climbed for 12 hours we opt to descend down the Meraner Weg. We reach the first iron ladder and abseil down into the steep Pleisrinne gully and join the path that leads back to the hut at sunset. At 19:00 we return, exhausted, back down into the valley.

Our great adventure on the three South Tyrolean mountains is complete. We’re overjoyed and completely satisfied with our three difficult first ascents on these famous and beautiful mountains.

by Florian Riegler

THE ROUTES
Königsspitze (Gran Zebrù) North Face - Checkmate - Schachmatt - Scacco Matto
First ascent: Florian Riegler and Martin Riegler, 07/01/2010
Length: 1000m
Grade: M10+ WI5 55°

Monte Zebrù North Face - Serac
First ascent: Florian Riegler and Martin Riegler, 21/04/2015
Length: 800m
Grade: WI4

Ortles Northwest Face- Trinitas
First ascent: Florian Riegler and Martin Riegler, 27/12/2015
Length: 1000m
Grade: WI4, M5