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Archil Badriashvili perishes on Mt Shkhelda in Georgia
14/08/2024 - Alpinism
Archil Badriashvili perishes on Mt Shkhelda in Georgia
Georgian mountaineer Archil Badriashvili, winner of the 2022 Piolet d’Or, lost his life on 10 August 2024 while descending from Mt Shkhelda in the Caucasus
Aleš Česen & Tom Livingstone climb West Ridge of Gasherbrum III
13/08/2024 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen & Tom Livingstone climb West Ridge of Gasherbrum III
Over a period of 7 days Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen and his British counterpart Tom Livingstone successfully made the first ascent of the West Ridge of Gasherbrum III in Pakistan's Karakoram. Their alpine-style success on 'Edge of Entropy' this summer...
New climb on Nevado Cashan Oeste in Peru by Mike Bowyer, Tom Schindfessel
01/08/2024 - Alpinism
New climb on Nevado Cashan Oeste in Peru by Mike Bowyer, Tom Schindfessel
On 12 July 2024 Mike Bowyer and Tom Schindfessel made the first ascent of 'La Suerte viene la suerte se va' on Nevado Cashan West (5732m) in Peru.
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
28/07/2024 - Alpinism
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima are reported as missing on the West Face of K2.
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
19/07/2024 - Alpinism
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
08/07/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
From 25 - 29 June 2024 the Japanese climbers Keisuke Ohkura, Kazumasa Ostubo and Yudai Suzuki made the first ascent of 'Dream House' (1240m, M6, AI5+, A2, R/X, VI) on the Quitaraju (6036m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in...
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70°...
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
30/04/2024 - Climbing
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
On the SW Face of Jebel Oujdad Iñaki Marco and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of 'Bihotz Handi' (7c/320m).
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
22/04/2024 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
The report by Luca Giupponi who in 2023 with Rolando Larcher made the ground-up first ascent of the 'Giupponi-Larcher' up Punta Emma on Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites.

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