1423 News found

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Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was...
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
16/10/2015 - Climbing
Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia
German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
14/10/2015 - Interviews
Ueli Steck #82Summits interview after the 82 4,000 meter peaks in the Alps
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego...
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
08/10/2015 - Climbing
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascent of 50 anni son volati, 25 regalati! (215m, 8a+ max, 7b obl.), a new rock climb established to celebrate his first 50 years together with Herman Zanetti, Luca Giupponi and Alessandro Larcher up...
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
05/10/2015 - Alpinism
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has carried out a fast solo ascent of the routes Tomahawk and Excocet on Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia.
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult...
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
29/09/2015 - Alpinism
Pelmo North Face winter ascent. A climbing story for commanders only
Ivo Ferrari retraces the winter repeat of the Pelmo North Face, carried out in the Dolomites by Soro Dorotei, Renato Panciera and Giuliano De Marchi. One of the most memorable stories of alpinism and winter mountaineering
CAI don't cry, new rock climb up Sass de Mura, Dolomites
29/09/2015 - Climbing
CAI don't cry, new rock climb up Sass de Mura, Dolomites
The report by Davide Gaeta and Andrea Salvadori about the first ascent of CAI don’t cry (VIII+, R3, 300m) up the North Face of Sass de Mura, Cimonega group, Belluno Dolomites.
Hans Florine climbs The Nose on El Capitan 100 times
28/09/2015 - Interviews
Hans Florine climbs The Nose on El Capitan 100 times
Interview with American rock climber Hans Florine who a fortnight ago made his 100th ascent of The Nose, the famous rock climb up El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
La Terrazza, climbing at Pietrabissara in Liguria
25/09/2015 - Climbing
La Terrazza, climbing at Pietrabissara in Liguria
Gian Paolo Rivara introduces La Terrazza, the beautiful little crag at Villa, Liguria, Italy. 17 sport climbs from 6a - 8a+ hosted in this disused conglomerate quarry at Pietrabissara.
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
23/09/2015 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli climb new route on La Esfinge in Peru
Last July Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli made the first ascent of Chappie (7b+, 600m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the granite giant La Esfinge in Peru.
Father's day
16/09/2015 - Alpinism
Father's day
Ivo Ferrari and the "responsibility" of being a father who guides his son up a rock climb.
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
15/09/2015 - Alpinism
New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey
Maurizio Oviglia and Recep Ince recommend some new trad climbs in Pınarbaşı Canyon (Ala Daglar, Turkey).
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
10/09/2015 - Climbing
French belays on sea cliffs, lower off advice for sport climbing
Maurizio Oviglia, Italian Mountaineering Club Instructor, discusses a few basic rules that should be observed before lowering off a “French belay", consisting of two bolts and no abseil chain.

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