Hans Florine climbs The Nose on El Capitan 100 times

Can you still remember that first time?
Yes, we went to to celebrate the July 4th weekend. Starting at 7pm we struggled through, climbing at night until we were exhausted, resting and climbing again. That was back in 1989, 26 years ago.

Having climbed The Nose so often, does it still unlock secrets?
Although I know a ton of tricks and fine details, I always discover some new piece of it. It is nearly 3000ft long, after all...

Do you still get butterflies in your stomach as you climb upwards?
No, but I respect height.

You’ve gained knowledge like almost no other on this route. Looking back at those ascents, is there something you wouldn’t do again?
I would never fix ropes the first portion without also leaving a ton of water and gear to support the launch and multi-day repeat.

You’ve specialized in single ascents. What can you tell us about NIAD, The Nose in a Day?
NIAD is really rewarding in a way that is different then doing El Cap "Big Wall Style." NIAD takes experience, fitness, knowledge and confidence. To cover that much terrain in an 8 hour work day or 14 hour day, then be on top with only a total of 25 lbs of gear to split between you and a partner is really fun. In some ways keeping the peddle to the metal for a whole day or 3 hours is a form of mediation. You don't have time to think about bills due, or work obligations etc… You are only thinking about keeping your partner and your self safe, and doing everything possible to keep the team moving upward. When you are vertical camping, big wall style, there is time to daydream, but also to worry about bills and text your accountant…

Talking of speed, you currently hold the speed record set with Alex Honnold in 2012. Can you tell us about the importance of this time?
Well, it is 13 minutes faster then my previous best time. That's a good chunk! It shows that we really hit a good pace and nailed all the transitions near to perfect.

Realistically, how close do you think this time is to the limit?
The limit is tricky to pin down. There are ways to climb that we probably don’t know right now. There are styles to do it in and methods we may have not created or thought of using.

Out of interest, has the thought ever crossed your mind of trying to free The Nose
Yes. I have freed all but 10ft in the Great Roof and 10 ft in the Changing Corners pitch. I didn't feel the time taken to free the route would be time well spent for me.

What can you say about the first ascent back in 1954 by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore?
It was bold. Nowadays it’s very hard to imagine the lack of knowledge they had.

And Lynn Hill?
Lynn's first free ascent was incredible, full stop.

And Tommy and Jorg?
Fantastic. Patience and persistence that exceed my own.

Your climbing isn’t all about The Nose though. You’ve climbed El Cap 160 times…
yes, in total I have climbed 24 different routes on El Cap. About ten people have climbed more different routes then me.

Over the years you must have seen just about everything there is to see on The Nose. Is there anything that really stands out?
There are many, but the ascent with Erik Weihenmayer back in 1996 was significant. With me Erik became the first blind person to climb The Nose. It was a great moment.

Last question, which I’m sure everyone who wishes to climb The Nose would be interested in: a bit of expert advice?
Buy my info set ;-) But just one thing: have a sense of urgency. Don't waste time, always be doing something to aid upward progress.


02/10/2002 - Lynn Hill and The Nose
Interview with Lynn Hill, a world-class sport climbing symbol. Her legendary one-day free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in 1994 Yosemite and her entire vertical world as seen by Lynn herself.

TOPO: The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite