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Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
20/07/2016 - Alpinism
Black and white, Ivan Ghirardini and the three North Faces solo in winter
Thoughts about the history of mountaineering. The solo winter trilogy carried out by Ivan Ghirardini up the legendary three North Faces of the Alps: the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger. By Ivo Ferrari.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
11/07/2016 - Climbing
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
On Saturday, 11/06/2016 Enrico Rosso, Pietro Sella and Antonio Zavattarelli made the first ascent of Mindfulness, a new climb up Rumi Mallku (5900m), Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes. A few days earlier, the 'Illampu 2016' expedition members teamed up with Davide Vitale to make the first repeat of the SW Ridge...
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
20/06/2016 - Gear
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
The Grivel Twin Gate carabiner has won the prestigious award Compasso d’oro ADI 2016, category Design for the individual.
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
13/06/2016 - Climbing
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
Simon Gietl and Simon Oberbacher have made the first ascent of 'Hart aber Fair', a new rock climb up Piz dla Dorada, above Colfosco in Alta Badia, Dolomites
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
07/06/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. While the ascent required just 12 hours 29 minutes from the Bergschrund to the summit, the descent proved a harrowing ordeal that turned out to be one of the most...
Monte Argentario - via dello Spigolo (Canne d'organo)
27/05/2016 - Alpinism
Monte Argentario - via dello Spigolo (Canne d'organo)
The report of the recent ascent of via dello Spigolo (Canne d’organo) at Costa della Scogliera, Monte Argentario, by Emiliano Cupellaro, hailed as possibly the most beautiful grade III and IV climbing in the Mediterranean.
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
25/05/2016 - Climbing
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
In autumn 2015 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Traverso al Cielo, a new multi-pitch climb up the South face of Peitlerkofel, Dolomites. Simon Kehrer reports.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
06/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located in the mountains, but inside a mountain, namely in the...
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
02/05/2016 - Climbing
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
British rock climber James McHaffie has made the first ascent of House of Talons, an E9 6c on Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, Wales.

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