New trad climbs in Ala Daglar, Turkey

This was my seventh trip to Turkey and the Ala Daglar mountains never stop amazing me. I’ve been going there for the last ten years and there’s always something new to discover. Kazıklı Ali, the conglomerate valley elected as the region’s sport climbing mecca, now has more than 300 routes ranging from 4a to 8b+, put up by tireless Recep Ince and the many friends who have helped him. Almost all visiting climbers focus their attention of the overhanging single pitch sport climbs and the decidedly friendly ambient, but few realize that the massif is full of canyons that still holds a huge potential.

One of these is certainly Pınarbaşı Canyon, located a few hundred meters from the Pınarbaşı village and the main road. This narrow gorge had attracted the attention of the French pioneers Denis Condevaux and Pascal Duverney who ever since 1993 established multi-pitch semi-sport climbs. The canyon, very particular, hosts an uncommon feature: the start is cut by countless cracks and chimneys, and this washed limestone is similar to the famous cracks that made the history books of the Verdon Gorge: Ula, Demande, Tuyau d'Orgue .. all concentrated within just a few hundred meters in height.

The first to clip trad gear to his harness was the talented Turkish climber Dogan Palut, who established a few bold lines and attempted some others. Later on I myself put up some incredible single pitch sport climbs with Recep Ince, and this caused quite a stir as some viewed the canyon as a place reserved exclusively to trad climbing. Things are a bit calmer now, trad and sport climbing seem to coexist more peacefully, especially since we need no additional wars in the Middle East! While fully respecting the routes of others, regardless of the style of ascent, I would like to point out that recently a flurry of new trad routes have been added by either Recep and myself or Recep with other friends. These are, as mentioned previously, fairly challenging routes that require experience at climbing cracks and chimneys, somewhat unpopular nowadays. But the cayon is charming, beautiful and, above all, cool, even when it’s 30°C elsewhere. Seeing is believing!

Maurizio Oviglia

Catch me
First ascent: Recep Ince & Erdinç Turna. 02.09.2015
P1: 30m, 6a
P2: 15m,5b
2 x 50 mt rope. Nuts & Camalot 1-4

Ballon Trad
First ascent: Recep Ince & Maurizio Oviglia. 27.08.2015
P1: 20m, 5a
P2: 35m, 6b/6b+
2 x 50m rope. Nuts & Camalot 1-4

Phantom Ship
First ascent: Recep Ince, Maurizio and Sara Oviglia. 08.2012
P1: 15m, 5a
P2: 35m, 6b
P3: 20m, 5a
P4: 30m, 5c
2 x 50m rope. Nuts & Camalot 1-4

Show must go on
Prima Salita Recep Ince. 08.2012
P1: 50m, 6b
2 x 50m rope. Nut e Camalot 1-4

Black Sunday
First ascent: M. Ay. 08.2012
P1: 40m, 6c+
2 x 50m rope. Nuts &Camalot 1-4

Deep Blue
Prima Salita Nedim Urcan & Recep Ince 08.08.2015
P1: 40m, 6b
P2: 25m, 5b
P3: 45m, 6b+
2 x 50mrope. Nuts & Camalot 1-4

Info: for further information write to Recep Ince: incerecep@yahoo.com
Web: www.aladaglarcamping.com
Guidebook: Comprehensive guide to Aladaglar, Recep Ince 2014,All sport climbs and some trad climbs in this mountain chain
A guidebook detailing all the trad routes in the entire massif is currently being written by the famous Turkish alpinist Tunç Fındık