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Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
30/12/2024 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.
Sean Bailey fires' Floatin' & 'Alphane'
11/12/2024 - Climbing
Sean Bailey fires' Floatin' & 'Alphane'
In the space of just a few weeks American climber Sean Bailey has repeated 'Floatin' at Mizugaki in Japan and 'Alphane' at Chironico in Switzerland
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
10/12/2024 - Alpinism
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
The report of the second day of the Piolets d'Or 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites.
Dai Koyamada establishes 'Kaikien' (8C) at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
03/12/2024 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada establishes 'Kaikien' (8C) at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
Japanese climber Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of 'Kaikien' at Mt. Kasagi in Japan. Described as 'the best problem here', the boulder has been graded 8C.
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
25/11/2024 - Climbing
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
Interview with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl after her ground-breaking, historic flash ascent of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Barbara Zangerl flashes Freerider on El Capitan
24/11/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl flashes Freerider on El Capitan
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has flashed 'Freerider' (VI 5.13a), making her the first person in history to flash El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Crowdfunding campaign to replace ageing anchors at Masua in Sardinia
18/11/2024 - Climbing
Crowdfunding campaign to replace ageing anchors at Masua in Sardinia
A fundraising campaign has been launched to rebolt the most at-risk sport climbs at Castello dell’Iride, one of the most beautiful crags in Sardinia.
Sean Bailey makes first ascent of 9A boulder Shaolin at Red Rock, USA
17/11/2024 - Climbing
Sean Bailey makes first ascent of 9A boulder Shaolin at Red Rock, USA
Watch the video of American climber Sean Bailey making the first ascent of Shaolin (9A) at Red Rock, USA
Michaela Kiersch climbs Dreamtime to make first female ascent of Fred Nicole’s Cresciano masterpiece
11/11/2024 - Interviews
Michaela Kiersch climbs Dreamtime to make first female ascent of Fred Nicole’s Cresciano masterpiece
American climber Michaela Kiersch has made the first female ascent of Dreamtime, Fred Nicole’s masterpiece at Cresciano hailed as the first 8C boulder problem in the world.
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest...
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
25/10/2024 - Alpinism
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
From 22 August to 26 September a small team of four Slovenian women comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed four new routes in the Indian Himalaya. These include the alpine style first ascent of...
Will Bosi repeats Spots of Time to climb four different 9A boulders
21/10/2024 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Spots of Time to climb four different 9A boulders
Scottish climber William Bosi has made the first repeat of Spots of Time, established by Aidan Roberts in the Lake District, UK, in February 2024. Bosi has now become the first person to climb four different V17/9A boulder problems.
James Pearson makes first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
02/10/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson makes first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy. Freed by Jacopo Larcher in 2021, this dangerous trad climb is located on a large boulder at the base of Sergent.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di...
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
13/09/2024 - Climbing
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl have all repeated 'Seventh Direction' in the Rätikon, Austria. The 220m 8c multipitch on Drusenfluh was first ascended in 2022 by Alex Luger.
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of...

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