Adam Ondra takes down 'Soudain Seul' in Fontainebleau

Adam Ondra is on strong form - is he ever not? - and after flashing El Elegido (8B+) at La Pedriza in Spain earlier this season, the 32-year-old Czech climber has made short work of the Soudain Seul in Fontainebleau, France. Also known as Big island Assis, this long-standing project was freed by Simon Lorenzi in February 2021. The Belgian wedged a book under his kneepad to gain the right width for the kneebar, and suggested 9A for the line. There has been some grade swaying to and fro since then, with Nico Pelorson suggesting 8C+ after the first repeat, while Camille Coudert felt 9A to be closer to the mark.

Ondra, who has multiple 8C+ to his name including his unrepeated 2011 testpiece Terranova, travelled to the forest on the outskirts of Paris with this problem in mind. He had made a two previous trips since January and over four sessions he honed the beta, then on only his fifth session, on the 3rd attempt of the day, he sent his hardest problem to date. Conditions were perfect on Saturday, windy with the rock feeling "very sticky", and knowing he was close on the problem that fits his style perfectly, he "put up some of the most memorable fights and made it to the top."

Writing on his website, Ondra explained he doesn't feel like an expert when it comes to high-end bouldering grades, but when push comes to shove he feels it's harder than 8C+, "but if it is 8C+/9A or soft 9A, I really don't know."

Ondra wouldn't be Ondra without offering some additional insight to the climb and he concluded "To finish, I did it with no book in the kneepad (I don't need it as I am tall enough, but I find the invention of Simon absolutely genius and don't find it controversial at all). But I did it with a fan pointing straight into the crux sloper (like Simon and Camille. Nico has very dry skin and did not need it). That is very game-changing for me and much more controversial, in my opinion."

The next day Ondra continued his winning streak by flashing both Ubik Assis (8B) and La Ligne de Bête (8B+).

 

 

 

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