Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy

In December 2022 I rebolted two multi-pitches at Masua in SW Sardinia, Non spezzarmi il cuore and Hard o Soft?. Cecilia Marchi helped me with the former, while the later was rebolted with local mountain guide Marco Bigatti, owner of the B&B Pedra Rubia at Nebida, a short distance from the cliffs. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled, wild beauty overlooking the sea.

Understandably the climbs on this sea cliff have been extremely popular for more than 35 years. Unfortunately, not many realise that most of the climbs were bolted with grade 304 stainless steel which appears to be in good condition (the hangers seem only slightly weathered), but which in actual fact poses a high risk of failure. Nowadays we all know that this type of steel is not suitable for sea cliffs, but in the early 2000s it was indicated and sold for marine areas. Unfortunately with this batch of steel, which is of poor quality compared to others of equal requisites, countless routes were bolted along the Italian coast. Climbs that nowadays must be considered dangerous.

On the final belay of Non Spezzarmi il cuore, for example, one of the anchors had snapped and in order to abseil off the route, climbers had tied off a rope to the juniper tree at the top of the crag. While rebolting the climb, two bolts snapped with just one blow of the hammer. On Hard or Soft? the situation appeared to be slightly better, but here too another two bolts broke with just two blows of the hammer.

The climbs have now been completely rebolted. Not just a few anchors have been replaced but, as I said, the routes have been rebolted completely, this time with 316 stainless steel. As yet, on this type of terrain this grade has never created problems, and it provides high resistance to wear and tear. On Hard or Soft? the belays are 12mm with a chain, on Non Spezzarmi il Cuore 10mm with chains. All the gear used to rebolt Hard or Soft? was provided by Marco Bigatti, while for Non Spezzarmi il Cuore the gear was purchased thanks to donations made to the website pietradiluna.com.. As an rule of thumb, the gear needed to rebolt a 150m multipitch costs between 400 and 600 euros. For the record, it took 4 days of work to rebolt the climbs.

At present the climbs at Masua are as follows:
Rebolted climbs:
Megaminimondo
Hard o Soft?
Non Spezzarmi il Cuore

Recent climbs:
Acciughe e Bottarga
Abbi Dubbi
Leonello

Climbs that are relatively safe:
Italia Liberata
Le Grand Mammuth
Dolci Sardi

Climbs at risk of bolt failure
All others

Please note: sea cliff crags are not exempt from this problem either. The crag Castello dell'Iride is very popular and the situation is constantly monitored by local bolters. The crag Wild Ca da Pria has not been rebolted, and even if at the moment there is no news of bolt failures, it remains potentially at risk. At Torrioni di Masua several routes have been rebolted. Cuenca del Cabron above Buggerru should be considered a high risk crag, please do not climb there, as several bolts have already broken there in the past! According to current information, the crags at Gutturu Cardaxius are considered relatively safe.

For any further information, access, reports as well as historical notes, please refer to the guidebook Pietra di Luna Trad & Multipitches, 2014 edition, Fabula Edizioni

by Maurizio Oviglia