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Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
19/06/2024 - Climbing
Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
On Monday 17 June a team of climbers hung a banner on El Capitan in Yosemite reading 'Stop the Genocide', to raise awareness of the conflict and put pressure on Israel to end the war in Gaza.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour...
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs...
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all...
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
15/05/2024 - Climbing
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
Swiss climber Didier Berthod has repeated Cobra Crack at Squamish in Canada. Freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2006 and hailed as one of the hardest crack climbs in the world at the time, this fierce splitter was almost freed by...
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
13/05/2024 - Alpinism
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
Walter Bonatti, Mont Blanc, his mountaineering. The new episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy takes you on a journey through history and time. After a visit to the National Museum of the Mountain, Federica Mingolla and Alberto Boschiazzo climb...
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
29/04/2024 - Climbing
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
British climber Mat Wright has repeated Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006.
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
18/04/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
17/04/2024 - Alpinism
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
Luca Giupponi report about 'Tokyo 2021' established on Torre Est in the Vajolet Towers, Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites. First ascended with Marco Fiorentini and Dino Vanzetta, the route is dedicated to Alex Toniolli.
Watch Cédric Lachat climb Chimpanzodrome, historic Jean-Pierre Bouvier 7c+ at Saussois
11/04/2024 - Alpinism
Watch Cédric Lachat climb Chimpanzodrome, historic Jean-Pierre Bouvier 7c+ at Saussois
The video of Swiss climber Cedric Lachat onsighting 'Chimpanzodrome', the historic 7c+ at Saussois in France first ascended in 1981 by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.
Watch Adam Ondra send Bon Voyage, E12 trad at Annot
08/04/2024 - Climbing
Watch Adam Ondra send Bon Voyage, E12 trad at Annot
The video of Adam Ondra making the first repeat of Bon Voyage, the E12 trad climb at Annot in France first ascended by James Pearson in February 2023.
Watch Marek Holeček & Matěj Bernát establish Simply Beautiful on Sura Peak in Nepal
27/03/2024 - Alpinism
Watch Marek Holeček & Matěj Bernát establish Simply Beautiful on Sura Peak in Nepal
The video of the first ascent of Simply Beautiful, the climb first ascended on Sura Peak in Nepal in May 2023 by Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernát.
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
26/03/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
Sébastien Berthe has repeated 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The route was repeated for the first time by Adam Ondra in February 2023, and Berthe's is now the third ascent....

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