Jorge Díaz-Rullo ticks Change (9b+) at Flatanger
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Adri Martinez
Just a few days after Alex Megos made his swift, 5-day repeat, Spain's Jorge Diaz-Rullo has now stepped in to make another redpoint of Change at Flatanger in Norway. This is now the 5th ascent after Adam Ondra (2012), Stefano Ghisolfi (2020), Seb Bouin (2022) and the aforementioned Megos. As a sign of how much standards have progressed, the route which in 2012 was hailed as the hardest climb in the world has now become the world's most repeated 9b+! The mammoth 55m outing is split into two distinct sections, a first pitch to an anchor which is given 9a+, and the second pitch extension which bumps the grade up to 9b+.
Díaz-Rullo has been going from strength to strength in recent years and in 2023 the 25-year-old from Madrid climbed two 9b+, establishing Mejorando la Samfaina at Margalef in February and making a repeat Bibliographie at Céüse in France in October. Early this year he repeated the 9b Sleeping Lion at Siurana and he has evidently continued this amazing run of form on his first-ever trip to Norway. Díaz-Rullo arrived in Flatanger six weeks ago and quickly set to work on what he has described as "a piece of climbing history", although he did also try various other projects, notaby Move and an onsight of the 8c Nordic Flower. On Thursday he finally made it through the first boulder crux from the ground and then, giving it absolutely everything he had, he continued all the way to the second anchor.
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