Eclissi established on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) by Luca Ducoli, Leo Gheza

Vallaccia currently is little-known valley in the Italian Dolomites but, given the rock quality and the favorable aspect, in the future it will receive more and more attention during the hot summer months. In addition, it has the bonus of having a quick way down: if conditions are right, you can avoid walking down by pargliding from the Zeni bivouac.

The line we chose on Torre di Mezzaluna is interesting and on excellent rock. It is completely independent, and the fact that it does not cross other lines is very important because the more time passes, the more the walls will become "congested" with different routes. The walls must be preserved without creating a chaotic net, unfortunately rock is finite.

With "Luchino", ie Luca Ducoli, we took stock of logistics and gear, planned three days to bolt all the pitches, then dedicated a further three days to cleaning the line in order to facilitate repeats. Finally, on 30 August, we freed all the pitches of our new route that we have called Eclissi.

After spending the summer on Mt Blanc, the hardest thing was the switch from granite to limestone, opening something new in the Dolomites was definitely traumatic! This might have created some confusion about the difficulties of the individual pitches. But grades aside, we sincerely hope that Eclissi is liked for the quality of its climbing. Enjoy!

by Leo Gheza

Thanks: Salewa - La Sportiva - EvilEyes - Samaya. Thanks for the helo during the firt ascent to. Magda, Angelino, Ulde, and Lappas Climbing for the bolts.