The news
16/07/2024 - Competitions
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again The Lead and SpeedWorld Cup took place in Chamonix, France, last weekend and was won respectively by Ai Mori and Colin Duffy, and by Zhang Shaoqin and Sam Watson. Fabio Palma reports
15/07/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese French climber Laura Pineau reports about some of her most recent ascents that include a free repeat of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite and a fast repeat of 'Turkey Crack' at Cadarese in Italy.
13/07/2024 - Climbing
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse The video of French climber Jules Marchaland making a rare repeat of 'Three Degrees of Separation', the iconic 9a+ freed by Chris Sharma in 2007.
12/07/2024 - Events
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women Pro climber Caroline Ciavaldini reports about the Grimpeuses climbing meeting for women that took place on the outskirts of Paris at the end of May.
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with...
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to...
09/07/2024 - Alpinism
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg The short film 'Embracing the Grim' by Aleksandra Janiak featuring Fay Manners and Line van den Berg, the talented Dutch alpinist who perished in 2023
08/07/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru From 25 - 29 June 2024 the Japanese climbers Keisuke Ohkura, Kazumasa Ostubo and Yudai Suzuki made the first ascent of 'Dream House' (1240m, M6, AI5+, A2, R/X, VI) on the Quitaraju (6036m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
06/07/2024 - Alpinism
Olympic Flame lights up Aiguille du Midi (Mont Blanc) In the run-up to the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, on 23 June the Olympic Torch Relay completed a breathtaking tour of Aiguille du Midi.
05/07/2024 - Climbing
Ferro, the cool summer crag in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Italy) Ferro is an atypical crag, a long way from the valley floor, immersed in unique alpine environment, where climbing is only a small part of the equation. Simone Pedeferri introduces the crag Ferro crag in Val del Ferro (Val di...
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
01/07/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead The fourth IFSC World Cup stage of the season took place in Innsbruck, Austria last week. Boulder was won by Janja Garnbret and Amagasa Sohta, while Lead was won by Garnbret and Jakob Schubert.
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974 From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
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