Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret win Climbing World Cup 2017

Kranj in Slovenia hosted for its 22nd Lead World Cup and, as per tradition, the end-of-season event proved decisive for the final rankings. While the overall winner had already been decided in the women’s event - the nigh unbeatable Janja Garnbret had already won the Cup after the penultimate stage in Xiamen in China - the battle was on for second and third place between the two lead queens Jain Kim and Anak Verhoeven.

In the men's competition everything was still up for grabs, with match point between Stefano Ghisolfi was Romain Desgranges. Prior to the last competition the Italian trailed by 78 points and the Frenchman therefore needed 15th place or better to win; he held his nerve and placed 9th to win his first-ever World Cup, while Ghisolfi settled for an outstanding second place. This is a historic achievement for Italian competition climbing, after Flavio Crespi’s victory in 2005, Cristian Brenna's second place in 1998 and Luca Zardini's second place in 1992. And after Dino Lagni’s World Championship victory back in 1999.

As to the Kranj competition, another two Italians qualified for the finals, namely Marcello Bombardi and Francesco Vettorata, and they finished 6th and 7th respectively. The competition was dominated right from the outset by Austria’s Jakob Schubert who celebrated his 18th career victory with the only male top, while Germany’s Alexander Megos fell one hold lower to stand on his first-ever world Cup podium, while Russia’s Dmitry Fakirianov earned bronze.

In the women's competition the hot favorite Janja Garnbret lived up to the huge expectation and won for the first time in front of her home crowd; her ascent was impressive to say the least as she touched, but failed to stick, the last hold. Jain Kim powered smoothly into second place, while Molly Thompson-Smith placed third and, in doing so, secured the first female Lead medal for Great Britain. Verhoeven fell unexpectedly low in the finals and slipped not only all the way down into eighth place in Kranj behind Julia Charnoudie, Mina Markovic, Shauna Coxsey and Vita Lukan, but also into third place in the overall standings behind Garnbret and Kim.

Kranj also dished out the Combined rankings that take into account Lead, Boulder and Speed. Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki beat Jongwon Chon by a mere 7 points, while bronze went to his teammate Kokoro Fuji. In the women's competition Garnbret with scored a record 1135 points , ahead of Jain Kim (626 points) and Shauna Coxsey (607 points).

Link: www.ifsc-climbing.org e www.worldcupkranj.com

KRANJ WORLD CUP 2017
FINAL STANDINGS
MALE RANKING
1 Jakob Schubert AUT Top
2 Alexander Megos GER 38+
3 Dmitrii Fakirianov RUS 36
4 Domen Skofic SLO 33+
5 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 32+
6 Francesco Vettorata ITA 31+
7 Marcello Bombardi ITA 31
8 Jan Hojer GER 31
9 Romain Desgranges FRA
10 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN
10 Simon Lorenzi BEL
12 Thomas Joannes FRA
13 Yuki Hada JPN
14 Hanwool Kim KOR
15 Fedir Samoilov UKR
16 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
17 Kokoro Fujii JPN
18 Christoph Hanke GER
19 Martin Bergant SLO
20 Jeremy Bonder FRA
21 Jernej Kruder SLO
22 Jongwon Chon KOR
23 Meichi Narasaki JPN
24 Sascha Lehmann SUI
25 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
26 Shinichiro Nomura JPN
27 Sergei Luzhetskii RUS
28 Hannes Puman SWE
29 Sergei Bydtaev RUS
30 Masahiro Higuchi JPN
31 Minyoung Lee KOR
32 Milan Preskar SLO
33 William Bosi GBR
33 Lars Hoffmann GER
33 Mario Lechner AUT
33 Georg Parma AUT
33 Max Rudigier AUT
33 Dimitri Vogt SUI
39 James Pope GBR
40 Nicolas Collin BEL
41 Alberto Gotta ITA
42 Mikhail Kochetkov RUS
43 Tomas Binter CZE
44 Yannick Flohé GER
45 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS
46 Ruben Firnenburg GER
46 Jakub Konecny CZE
46 Anze Peharc SLO
46 Zan Sudar SLO
46 Nicolai Uznik AUT
51 Luka Potocar SLO
52 Klemen Novak SLO
53 Nikola Kramaric CRO
54 Vadim Malshchukov RUS
55 Maciej Dobrzanski POL
56 Denis Pail CZE
57 Thilo Jeldrik Schröter NOR
58 Or Miniely ISR
59 Oleksii Krinetsky UKR
60 Mykhayil Tkachuk UKR
60 Stepan Volf CZE

FEMALE RANKING
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 44+
2 Jain Kim KOR 43
3 Molly Thompson-Smith GBR 33+
4 Julia Chanourdie FRA 33+
5 Mina Markovic SLO 32+
6 Shauna Coxsey GBR 29+
7 Vita Lukan SLO 23+
8 Anak Verhoeven BEL 23
9 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
10 Urska Repusic SLO
11 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI
12 Mei Kotake JPN
13 Risa Ota JPN
14 Julia Fiser AUT
15 Stasa Gejo SRB
16 Hannah Schubert AUT
17 Miho Nonaka JPN
18 Heloïse Doumont BEL
19 Mia Krampl SLO
20 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
21 Moe Yoshimura JPN
22 Katja Kadic SLO
23 Lucka Rakovec SLO
23 Laura Rogora ITA
25 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS
26 Hannah Midtboe NOR
27 Katherine Choong SUI
27 Michelle Hulliger SUI
29 Tjasa Kalan SLO
30 Hélène Janicot FRA
30 Lana Skusek SLO
32 Nolwenn Arc FRA
33 Veronika Meke SLO
33 Jessica Pilz AUT
35 Eva Maria Hammelmüller AUT
36 Hannah Slaney GBR
37 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
37 Johanna Holfeld GER
37 Laura Stöckler AUT
40 Andrea Ebner ITA
41 Mathilde Becerra FRA
41 Tjasa Slemensek SLO
43 Kaja Skvarcbozic SLO
44 Hannah Meul GER
45 Frederike Fell GER
45 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA
47 Alma Bestvater GER
48 Magdalena Röck AUT
49 Celine Cuypers BEL
50 Jennifer Wood GBR
51 Gabriela Vrablikova CZE
52 Tereza Kubatova CZE

LEAD WORLD CUP 2017
FINAL STANDINGS
MALE RANKING
1 Romain Desgranges FRA 477.00
2 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 413.00
3 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 373.00
4 Domen Skofic SLO 325.00
5 Marcello Bombardi ITA 289.00
6 Jakob Schubert AUT 265.00
7 Thomas Joannes FRA 221.00
8 Hanwool Kim KOR 213.00
9 Fedir Samoilov UKR 193.00
10 Francesco Vettorata ITA 182.00
11 Sean Bailey USA 173.00
11 Hannes Puman SWE 173.00
11 Max Rudigier AUT 173.00
14 Yuki Hada JPN 170.00
15 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 166.00
16 Kokoro Fujii JPN 162.00
17 Christoph Hanke GER 153.00
17 Jan Hojer GER 153.00
19 Masahiro Higuchi JPN 144.00
20 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 140.00
21 Sean McColl CAN 127.00
22 Alexander Megos GER 120.00
23 Jongwon Chon KOR 111.00
24 Loïc Timmermans BEL 98.00
25 Martin Tekles GER 95.00
26 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN 83.00
27 Sebastian Halenke GER 80.00
27 Adam Ondra CZE 80.00
29 Yufei Pan CHN 72.00
30 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP 71.00
30 Haibin Qu CHN 71.00
32 Dmitrii Fakirianov RUS 65.00
33 Yuval Shemla ISR 61.00
34 Jorg Verhoeven NED 59.00
35 Naoki Shimatani JPN 48.00
36 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP 47.00
36 Alberto Gotta ITA 47.00
38 Simon Lorenzi BEL 46.00
38 James Pope GBR 46.00
40 Jakub Konecny CZE 42.00
41 Shinichiro Nomura JPN 40.00
42 Sam Avezou FRA 31.00
42 Kai Lightner USA 31.00
44 Piotr Schab POL 29.00
45 Minyoung Lee KOR 28.00
45 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 28.00
47 David Firnenburg GER 25.00
48 William Bosi GBR 21.00
49 Sascha Lehmann SUI 19.00
50 Martin Bergant SLO 16.00
51 Nao Monchois FRA 15.00
51 Vladislav Shevchenko RUS 15.00
53 Nicolas Collin BEL 14.00
54 Jeremy Bonder FRA 12.00
55 Campbell Harrison AUS 11.00
55 Jernej Kruder SLO 11.00
57 Charli Blein FRA 10.00
58 Georg Parma AUT 9.00
58 Filip Schenk ITA 9.00
60 Meichi Narasaki JPN 8.00
60 Matthias Schiestl AUT 8.00
62 Anatole Bosio FRA 4.00
62 Sergei Bydtaev RUS 4.00
62 Josh Levin USA 4.00
62 Sergei Luzhetskii RUS 4.00
62 Hiroto Shimizu JPN 4.00
62 Mykhayil Tkachuk UKR 4.00
68 Sébastien Berthe BEL 3.00
69 Jesse Grupper USA 2.00
69 Luke Muehring USA 2.00
69 Takuma Numajiri JPN 2.00

FEMALE RANKING
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 665.00
2 Jain Kim KOR 525.00
3 Anak Verhoeven BEL 444.00
4 Jessica Pilz AUT 374.00
5 Julia Chanourdie FRA 362.00
6 Mina Markovic SLO 304.00
7 Molly Thompson-Smith GBR 267.00
8 Ashima Shiraishi USA 233.00
9 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 210.00
10 Hannah Schubert AUT 204.00
11 Risa Ota JPN 184.00
12 Salomé Romain FRA 175.00
13 Mathilde Becerra FRA 163.00
14 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR 156.00
15 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 137.00
16 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 115.00
17 Katherine Choong SUI 112.00
18 Vita Lukan SLO 109.00
19 Laura Rogora ITA 93.00
20 Margo Hayes USA 87.00
21 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 85.00
21 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA 85.00
23 Mia Krampl SLO 82.00
24 Julia Fiser AUT 80.00
25 Hélène Janicot FRA 72.00
26 Brooke Raboutou USA 68.00
27 Mei Kotake JPN 66.00
28 Nolwenn Arc FRA 63.00
29 Urska Repusic SLO 52.00
30 Shauna Coxsey GBR 47.00
30 Moe Yoshimura JPN 47.00
32 Hannah Slaney GBR 43.00
33 Nolwen Berthier FRA 42.00
33 Katharina Posch AUT 42.00
35 Lamu Renqing CHN 36.00
36 Magdalena Röck AUT 34.00
37 Netta Fredman ISR 30.00
37 Viktoriia Meshkova RUS 30.00
37 Alina Ring SUI 30.00
40 Michelle Hulliger SUI 26.00
41 Heloïse Doumont BEL 24.00
42 Stasa Gejo SRB 22.00
42 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS 22.00
44 Delaney Miller USA 21.00
45 Claire Buhrfeind USA 20.00
46 Kyra Condie USA 18.00
46 Miho Nonaka JPN 18.00
48 Jiwon Bae KOR 17.00
49 Hung Ying Lee TPE 13.00
50 Moriwaki Honoka JPN 12.00
50 Hsiu-Ju Lin TPE 12.00
52 Minseon Kim KOR 11.00
52 Anna Tsyganova RUS 11.00
54 Laura Stöckler AUT 10.00
55 Yuzhen Baima CHN 9.00
55 Katja Kadic SLO 9.00
57 Celine Cuypers BEL 8.00
57 Jennifer Wood GBR 8.00
59 Alma Bestvater GER 7.00
59 Jenny Lavarda ITA 7.00
59 Lucka Rakovec SLO 7.00
62 Chloe Caulier BEL 6.00
63 Luiza Emeleva RUS 5.00
63 Lilli Kiesgen GER 5.00
63 Hannah Midtboe NOR 5.00
63 Kenza Slamti FRA 5.00
63 Sunga Son KOR 5.00
68 Joanne Brinkmann SUI 4.00
68 Kitty Morrison GBR 4.00
68 Iva Vejmolova CZE 4.00
71 Evgeniya Lapshina RUS 3.00
71 Joanna Neame GBR 3.00
73 Chauncey Carroll USA 2.00
73 Tjasa Kalan SLO 2.00
73 Anouk Piola SUI 2.00
73 Kajsa Rosen SWE 2.00
73 Sol Sa KOR 2.00
78 Katrin Amann SWE 1.00
78 Yiling Song CHN 1.00