Adam Ondra and Julia Chanourdie win Arco Rock Master 2017
Having already mentioned the Arco Rock Legends 2017 evening celebration during which Mike Kosterlitz, Janja Garnbret and Margo Hayes were celebrated as this year’s winners, it’s time to focus on the fact that the Arco Rock Master obviously also hosted some gripping climbing with the fourth stage of the World Cup Lead and Speed. 72 female athletes and 85 male athletes competed in the Lead event during which Alexander Megos surprised everyone by taking part after five years of absence from the competition scene. The German super star climbed far better than everyone else, quite literally dominating both the qualification and the semi-final, hence exceptions were stellar for his performance in the final round. Last out of isolation, the 24-year-old fell however almost right at the start of the route and the final was one by Austria’s grandiose Jakob Schubert who’d fired high up the wall before being timed out after six minutes. Adam Ondra took second place in front of the Austria’s Max Rudigier who celebrated his first-ever Lead World Cup podium. Ondra and Rudigier had actually fallen off the same hold but as per rules countback was used to separate the two.
Even in the women's competition time became an issue: South Korea’s Jain Kim climbed smoothly and slowly and after her six minutes the judges called her down from hold #38, the same hold from which a few minutes earlier Switzerland’s Anne-Sophie Koller had fallen. Countback worked in Kim’s favour and the Swiss celebrated her first senior silver. Bronze wen to Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret who fell from hold #32 just like France’s Julia Chanourdie and America’s Ashima Shiraishi; once again countback to the Semis was used to separate the three.
Duel
The duel assigned the Rock Master trophy and for the third year running - and tor the fourth time ever - the fastest in this spectacular discipline was Adam Ondra. The Czech stopped the clock in less than a minute - 58:53 to be precise - to beat Italy’s increasingly powerful Marcello Bombardi. Jakob Schubert placed third, beating Japan’s Keiichiro Korenaga in the small final. In the women's competition Julia Chanourdie won her first Rock Master title by beating last year’s winner Janja Garnbret. The sprint for third place was won by England’s surprising Molly Thompson-Smith who beat Belgium’s Anak Verhoeven.
Boulder
This year KO Boulder had a really impressive starting list and included the best of the best, without a shadow of doubt. After battling against a series of injuries, America’s Alex Puccio celebrated her comeback in style by sending all four problems first go. Serbia’s Stasa Gejo placed second ahead of Slovenia’s Katja Kadic. In the men's competition a Superfinal was needed to separate 2017 and 2015 Boulder World Cup winner Jongwon Chon from Italy’s Gabriele Moroni. In the end the South Korean beat the crowd-favourite, while Russia’s Alexey Rubtsov placed third. Those who failed to make the podium therefore were Jan Hojer, Jernej Kruder, Michael Piccolruaz, Keita Watabe, and Giorgia Tesio, Aya Onoe and Anna Stöhr.
Speed
The fourth leg of the Speed World Cup was won by Russia’s Vladislav Devlin, who beat Iran’s Reza Alipourshenazandifar who took an early fall in the final. Italy’s Ludovico Fossali sprinted into third by beating Ukraine’s Danyil Boldyrev in the small final. In the women's event Russia’s Iulia Kaplina made a false start and handed victory to France’s Anouck Jaubert, while a fall in the small final proved costly for Poland’s Anna Brozek, who saw third place go to Russia’s Anna Tsyganova.
Rock Junior
As per tradition, Arco also hosted hundreds and hundreds of young climbers who in two days - Thursday and Sunday - demonstrated how great athletic ability can be matched by pure fun. For all the results check out www.rockmasterfestival.com
WOLRD CUP LEAD
MEN
1 Jakob Schubert AUT 39
2 Adam Ondra CZE 38+
3 Max Rudigier AUT 38+
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 34+
5 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 33+
6 Thomas Joannes FRA 26+
7 Hannes Puman SWE 26
8 Alexander Megos GER 11+
9 Marcello Bombardi ITA
10 Romain Desgranges FRA
11 Masahiro Higuchi JPN
12 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN
13 James Pope GBR
14 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP
15 Hanwool Kim KOR
16 Sean Bailey USA
16 Francesco Vettorata ITA
18 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
19 Christoph Hanke GER
20 Martin Tekles GER
21 Domen Skofic SLO
22 Sebastian Halenke GER
23 Yuki Hada JPN
24 Fedir Samoilov UKR
25 Shinichiro Nomura JPN
26 Naoki Shimatani JPN
27 Hiroto Shimizu JPN
28 William Bosi GBR
29 Loïc Timmermans BEL
30 Yuval Shemla ISR
31 Tomas Ravanal CHI
32 Alberto Gotta ITA
33 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
34 Lucas Uchida CAN
35 David Firnenburg GER
36 Campbell Harrison AUS
36 Alex Khazanov ISR
38 Mario Lechner AUT
39 Rustam Gelmanov RUS
40 Simon Lorenzi BEL
41 David Barrans GBR
42 Noah Ridge USA
43 Takuma Numajiri JPN
44 Jan Hojer GER
45 Cesar Grosso BRA
46 Georg Parma AUT
47 Bobby Taft Pittman USA
48 Matthias Schiestl AUT
49 Felipe Ho Foganholo BRA
50 Jernej Kruder SLO
51 Sébastien Berthe BEL
52 Sungbo Seo KOR
52 Ka-chun Yau HKG
54 Lorenzo Carasio ITA
55 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
56 Milan Preskar SLO
57 Benjamin Hanna USA
58 Khosro Hashemzadeh IRI
59 David Oberprantach. ITA
60 Shane Messer USA
61 Josh Levin USA
62 Martin Bergant SLO
63 Galo Hernandez ECU
63 Alessandro Zeni ITA
65 Alex Fricker CAN
66 Chi-fung Au HKG
66 Benjamin Ayala CHI
68 Carlos Granja ECU
69 Giorgio Bendazzoli ITA
70 Ram Levin ISR
70 Kyle Murdoch CAN
72 Edwin Crucerira ECU
73 Jean Ouriques BRA
74 Santiago Schmidt ARG
75 Aidan Doyle CAN
76 Max Hammer USA
77 Oscar Rivadeneira ECU
78 Tsun-ting Ip HKG
79 Katleho Pobe RSA
80 Ivan Filipiuk UKR
81 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
82 Dherek Rengifo ECU
83 Bryam Moreno ECU
84 Santiago Christensen ARG
85 Gustavo Gabriel Munne Suarez ARG
WOMEN
1 Jain Kim KOR 38
2 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 38
3 Janja Garnbret SLO 32+
4 Julia Chanourdie FRA 32+
5 Ashima Shiraishi USA 32+
6 Anak Verhoeven BEL 31+
7 Jessica Pilz AUT 31+
8 Molly Thompson-Smith GBR 20+
9 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
10 Margo Hayes USA
11 Laura Rogora ITA
12 Salomé Romain FRA
13 Katherine Choong SUI
14 Risa Ota JPN
15 Ekaterina Kipriianova RUS
16 Claire Buhrfeind USA
17 Kyra Condie USA
18 Mathilde Becerra FRA
19 Hannah Schubert AUT
20 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA
21 Mina Markovic SLO
22 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
23 Brooke Raboutou USA
24 Delaney Miller USA
25 Hélène Janicot FRA
26 Moe Yoshimura JPN
27 Iva Vejmolova CZE
28 Julia Fiser AUT
28 Sol Sa KOR
30 Mia Krampl SLO
31 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
32 Nolwenn Arc FRA
33 Hannah Slaney GBR
34 Tjasa Kalan SLO
35 Muriel Ruíz Larramendi Arangoa ESP
36 Jiwon Bae KOR
37 Tjasa Slemensek SLO
38 Netta Fredman ISR
39 Magdalena Röck AUT
40 Valentina Aguado ARG
41 Jenny Lavarda ITA
42 Homare Toda JPN
43 Seunghyun Kim KOR
44 Meagan Martin USA
45 MORIWAKI Honoka JPN
46 Anna Tsyganova RUS
47 Minseon Kim KOR
48 Natalia Grossman USA
49 Carroll Chauncey USA
50 Kitty Morrison GBR
51 Jennifer Wood GBR
52 Bronwen Karnis CAN
53 Alejandra Contreras CHI
54 Rut Casas Mur ESP
55 Jana Messner ITA
56 Katrin Amann SWE
56 Irina Kuzmenko RUS
58 Pia Graham CAN
59 Monika Prokopiuk POL
59 Marisa Romero USA
61 Andrea Rojas ECU
62 Lucinda Ann Stirling AUS
63 Dana Monteith CAN
64 Emily Gonzalez ECU
65 Chloe Earle CAN
66 Alisson Vizuete ECU
67 Wai-ping Yu HKG
68 Victoria Gimenez ARG
69 heeyeon Park KOR
70 Anastasiia Fesenko UKR
71 Suet-ying Lam HKG
72 Mckenzie
WORLD CUP SPEED
MEN
1 Vladislav Deulin RUS 5.83
2 Reza Alipourshena. IRI fall
3 Ludovico Fossali ITA 10.00
4 Danyil Boldyrev UKR false start
5 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
6 Leonardo Gontero ITA
7 Alessandro Santoni ITA
8 Libor Hroza CZE
9 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
10 Guillaume Moro FRA
11 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
12 Carlos Granja ECU
13 Aleksandr Shikov RUS
14 Marcin Dzienski POL
15 QiXin Zhong CHN
16 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS
17 Michael Finn-Henry USA
18 Rafal Halasa POL
18 Stanislao Zama ITA
20 Cristian Dorigatti ITA
21 Jan Kriz CZE
22 Noah Bratschi USA
23 Merritt Ernsberger USA
24 Lukas Knapp AUT
24 Juan Martin Peña ECU
26 Luke Rodley USA
27 Gabriele Randi ITA
28 Max Hammer USA
29 Matthias Erber AUT
30 Chi-fung Au HKG
31 David Piccolruaz ITA
32 Jordan Romig USA
33 Georgy Artamonov RUS
34 Galo Hernandez ECU
35 Leonardo Sandrin ITA
36 David Firnenburg GER
37 Oscar Rivadeneira ECU
38 Ivan Filipiuk UKR
39 Dmytro Lysenko UKR
40 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
41 Isaac Estevez ECU
42 Alessandro Cingari ITA
43 Bryam Moreno ECU
44 Ka-chun Yau HKG
45 Hei-yeung Lam HKG
46 Jonatan Flor Vazquez ESP
47 Gustavo Gabriel Suarez Munne ARG
48 Santiago Christensen ARG
48 Filip Schenk ITA
48 Nicholas Strong USA
WOMEN
1 Anouck Jaubert FRA 8.11
2 Iuliia Kaplina RUS false start
3 Anna Tsyganova RUS 7.91
4 Anna Brozek POL fall
5 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
6 Andrea Rojas ECU
7 Edyta Ropek POL
8 Elena Timofeeva RUS
9 Klaudia Buczek POL
10 Alla Marenych UKR
11 Farnaz Esmaeilzadeh IRI
12 Mariia Krasavina RUS
13 Silvia Porta ITA
14 Patrycja Chudziak POL
15 Elisabetta Dalla Brida ITA
16 Victoire Andrier FRA
17 Elma Fleuret FRA
18 Nina Lach AUT
19 Anastasiia Golikova RUS
20 Martina Zanetti ITA
21 Alexandra Elmer AUT
22 Giorgia Randi ITA
23 Claire Buhrfeind USA
24 Francesca Vasi ITA
25 Sara Morandini ITA
26 Natalia Wos POL
27 Kyra Condie USA
28 Monika Prokopiuk POL
29 Anastasiya Zaichenko UKR
30 Alessandra Zanetti ITA
31 Brooke Raboutou USA
32 Kobra Lakzaiifar IRI
33 Giulia Medici ITA
34 Natalia Grossman USA
35 Grace Digiorgio USA
36 Ashima Shiraishi USA
37 Emily Gonzalez ECU
38 Giorgia Tesio ITA
39 Rut Casas Mur ESP
40 Alisson Vizuete ECU
41 Valentina Aguado ARG
42 Victoria Gimenez ARG
43 Alejandra Contreras CHI
43 Marisa Romero USA
43 Muriel Ruíz De Larramendi Arangoa ESP