Boulder, Lead and Speed Climbing medals at LA28 Olympic Games

The International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced yesterday that at the 2028 Los Angeles Games, sport climbing’s three core disciplines - Speed, Lead, and Boulder - will each be awarded their own medals. This landmark decision marks a major step forward for the sport and effectively retires the heavily criticized Combined format.

Many will recall that while the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) succeeded in getting climbing included in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, only one medal set was offered. This forced the creation of the Combined format, which merged Speed, Lead, and Boulder into a single event. Though contrived and controversial - pleasing few - it was the IFSC’s pragmatic compromise to secure a place in the Olympic program.

The gamble worked. Following climbing’s successful debut in Tokyo, the IOC expanded the medal count for Paris 2024, separating Speed from Boulder & Lead. Now, for Los Angeles 2028, the IOC has gone further, approving individual medals for all three disciplines. Eight years after its contentious Olympic introduction, the IFSC has finally achieved its original vision: full recognition for each discipline. Published below is its recent press release.

SPORT CLIMBING’S THREE DISCIPLINES GET STANDALONE MEDALS FOR LA28
There will be three sets of medals for both men’s and women’s climbers up for grabs at LA28 with the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announcing an increase in medals and athlete quota for Sport Climbing.

In Climbing’s third Summer Olympic Games appearance, and first as a full programme sport, each of its core disciplines – Speed, Lead, Boulder – will all have their own sets of medals to be won.

With one combined format offering one set of medals per gender at Tokyo 2020, to two sets at Paris 2024, the Olympic Games Los Angeles 2028 will see each individual discipline given the opportunity to shine on the world stage.

A communication from the IOC stated: “The IOC Executive Board has approved six events for men's and women's Lead, Speed, and Boulder climbing, with a total quota of 76 athletes (38 women and 38 men).

“The specific allocation of these quota places across the events will be finalised in the Olympic Qualification System, including the potential for athletes to compete in multiple events.”

Following the announcement IFSC President Marco Scolaris said: “From the very beginning of our Olympic journey we have always had the target of three sets of medals for our athletes. Each of our disciplines has its own unique strengths, and now everyone will see these at LA28.

“I’m happy to be at this point in our history thanks to a fantastic collaborative effort from so many people. The Climbing community; from the athletes to the spectators to the staff all working together. I’m personally grateful to the IOC and LA28, working together in these last months was a great human and sport experience. LA28 will be an ever-bigger celebration for Climbing.”