Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win in China

Stefano Ghisolfi has won the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup! In a nigh perfect competition the Italian won on Sunday at Wujiang in China, beating the reigning Bouldering World Champion Tomoa Narasaki and South Korea’s Hanwool Kim, second and third respectively. With this victory - the third in his career after Xiamen in 2016 and Wujiang in 2014 - Ghisolfi reopens the Lead World Cup title race and reduces the gap withRomain Desgranges who leads with a 105 point margin. In the final the Frenchman fell off the same hold as Kim, Domen Skofic and Jongwon Chon (winner of the 2017 Bouldering World Cup), and the four were separated on countback. Japan’s Yoshiyuki Ogata and Keiichiro Korenaga finished seventh and eighth respectively.

In the women's competition Janja Garnbret from Slovenia punched home with her fifth victory this season; just like Ghisolfi, she produced the only top in the final, with a mere six seconds to spare before time ran out. South Korea’s Jain Kim placed second while France’s Julia Chanourdie placed third to claim her highly deserved, first-ever World Cup podium. Thanks to this latest result Garnbret, who topped all routes in the qualifiers and semis, consolidates her lead in 2017 ranking, while Kim trails 120 behind. As in the men’s competition, the title race is still wide open and the penultimate competition at Xiamen next Saturday and Sunday will prove decisive.

Wujiang also hosted the 6th stage of the Speed World Speed ​​Cup, won by Russia’s Aleksandr Shikov who beat the Indonesian Aspar Jaelolo. In the women's competition the rivalry between Russia’s Iuliia Kaplina and France’s Anouck Jaubert intensified and a mere seven hundredths of a second separated them this time, as Kaplina won the heat to take a 29 point lead ahead of Jaubert.

Lead Men
1 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA Top
2 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 34
3 Hanwool Kim KOR 30+
4 Domen Skofic SLO 30+
5 Romain Desgranges FRA 30+
6 Jongwon Chon KOR 30+
7 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 27+
8 Keiichiro Korenaga JPN 24+
9 Martin Tekles GER
10 Kokoro Fujii JPN
11 Haibin Qu CHN
12 Elan Jonasmcrae CAN
13 Christoph Hanke GER
14 Francesco Vettorata ITA
15 Jan Hojer GER
16 Thomas Joannes FRA
17 Marcello Bombardi ITA
18 Max Rudigier AUT
19 Alberto Gotta ITA
19 Hannes Puman SWE
21 Masahiro Higuchi JPN
22 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
23 Campbell Harrison AUS
24 Yufei Pan CHN
25 Fedir Samoilov UKR
26 Shinichiro Nomura JPN
27 Mykhayil Tkachuk UKR
28 Josh Levin USA
29 Luke Muehring USA
30 Loïc Timmermans BEL
31 Joonha Shin KOR
32 Keita Watabe JPN
33 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
34 Maciej Dobrzanski POL
35 Hongil Kim KOR
36 Vsevolod Ilinykh RUS

Lead Women
1 Janja Garnbret SLO Top
2 Jain Kim KOR 45+
3 Julia Chanourdie FRA 36+
4 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 33.5+
5 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR 33.5+
6 Ashima Shiraishi USA 33+
7 Jessica Pilz AUT 31+
8 Anak Verhoeven BEL 28+
9 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
10 Mina Markovic SLO
11 Mathilde Becerra FRA
12 Salomé Romain FRA
13 Hannah Schubert AUT
14 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR
14 Risa Ota JPN
16 Moe Yoshimura JPN
17 Claudia Ghisolfi ITA
18 Lamu Renqing CHN
19 Netta Fredman ISR
20 Moriwaki Honoka JPN
21 Mei Kotake JPN
22 Tina Johnsen Hafsaas NOR
23 Jiwon Bae KOR
24 Hung Ying Lee TPE
25 Magdalena Röck AUT
26 Sunga Son KOR
27 Yuzhen Baima CHN
28 Anna Tsyganova RUS
29 Hsiu-Ju Lin TPE
30 Yiling Song CHN

Speed Men
1 Aleksandr Shikov RUS 6.32
2 Aspar Jaelolo INA 6.33
3 Sufriyanto Rindi INA Wildcard
4 Sabri Sabri INA false start
5 Dmitrii Timofeev RUS
6 Qixin Zhong CHN
7 Aleksandr Shilov RUS
8 Vladislav Deulin RUS
9 Ludovico Fossali ITA
10 Kostiantyn Pavlenko UKR
11 Marcin Dzienski POL
12 Stanislav Kokorin RUS
13 Leonardo Gontero ITA
14 Zhiyong Ou CHN
15 Pangeran Septo Wibowo Siburian INA
16 Jinxin Li CHN
17 Hinayah Muhammad INA
18 Guillaume Moro FRA
19 Alessandro Santoni ITA
20 Yulianto Abudzar INA
21 Fengqi Wang CHN
22 Rafal Halasa POL
23 Georgy Artamonov RUS
24 Yongsu Lee KOR
25 Luke Muehring USA
26 Jan Hojer GER
27 Jungju Kim KOR
28 Rongqi Liang CHN
29 Gian Luca Zodda ITA
30 Tomoa Narasaki JPN
31 Arsenii Bogomolov RUS
32 Kokoro Fujii JPN
33 Josh Levin USA
34 Javier Cano Blazquez ESP
35 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
36 Hannes Puman SWE
37 Sergio Pastor Martínez ESP
38 Hongil Kim KOR

Speed Women
1 Iuliia Kaplina RUS 7.66
2 Anouck Jaubert FRA 7.73
3 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS Wildcard
4 Aries Susanti Rahayu INA false start
5 Aurelia Sarisson FRA
6 Mariia Krasavina RUS
7 Santi Wellyanti INA
8 Anna Tsyganova RUS
9 Alla Marenych UKR
10 Anna Brozek POL
11 Victoire Andrier FRA
12 Klaudia Buczek POL
13 Puji Lestari INA
14 Yiling Song CHN
15 Cuilian He CHN
16 Elena Timofeeva RUS
17 Mingwei Ni CHN
18 Elisabetta Dalla Brida ITA
19 Xuhua Pan CHN
20 Syafiiyah Dhorifatus INA
21 Edyta Ropek POL
22 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
23 Jessica Pilz AUT
24 Sunga Son KOR
25 Ashima Shiraishi USA
26 Fitriyani Fitriyani INA
26 Rajiah Sallsabillah INA