Janja Garnbret & Sorato Anraku provisional first in Combined Boulder & Lead

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret and Japan's Sorato Anraku are provisional first after yesterday's Combined Boulder & Lead Semifinal. The women's finals take place tomorrow while the men's is scheduled for Saturday, with the top three qualifying for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
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Toby Roberts (GBR) competes in the Combined Boulder & Lead semi-finals
Lena Drapella / IFSC

The fight for Paris 2024 tickets is getting tense as the short-list continues to shorten at the IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern, Switzerland. After yesterday's Combined event, both the men and women now have their final eight competitors who will fight for the three Olympic Games spots on offer to go along with a Boulder & lead world title. Some very big names are in, while some very big names such as Megos, are surprisingly out such as - to name just a few - Mejdi Schalck, Alexander Megos, Sean Bailey, Yannick Flohé, Mickael Mawem, Natalia Grossman, Chaehyun Seo, Molly Thompson-Smith, Mia Krampl and Laura Rogora

Unsurprisingly Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret made the cut, and even made it before setting foot onto the lead wall. A strong Boulder performance meant that she had secured a top eight position before her Lead climb, which she scored 76.1 points on for a 175-point total. Mori Ai of Japan was the only female climber to top the Lead route and with it secured herself second position and a finals spot with 136.9 points. France’s Oriane Bertone had two consistent rounds to progress in third with 133.5 ahead of another consistent performer in Brooke Raboutou of the USA who was fourth. Nonaka Miho of Japan and Jessica Pilz of Austria both reached the same Lead hold, however Nonaka was fifth to Pilz’s sixth due to a better Boulder result. Young Anastasia Sanders of the USA made the top eight despite a low scoring Lead climb whereas the vastly experience Kim Jain of South Korea crept in thanks to a high scoring Lead climb.

In the men's event, Japan’s Anraku Sorato top scored in both Boulder and Lead disciplines to take first place with a score of 184.9. Toby Roberts of Great Britain topped the Lead route, and even had time to get the crowd going twice near the top of the route and is second with 164.7 points. USA’s Colin Duffy was first out in both Boulder and Lead, and had two very solid rounds scoring 157 points for third spot. Anraku will have a teammate in the final as Narasaki Tomoa was fourth ahead of Austria’s Jakob Schubert who had to count on his Lead skills to make up for a below par Boulder display. Schubert topped the route to secure fifth. Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic will join his friend Schubert in the finals in sixth spot above South Korea’s Lee Dohyun in seventh and France’s Paul Jenft in eighth.

The women’s final is scheduled for 11 August at 19:00 (UTC+2:00).
The men’s final is scheduled for 12 August at 16:00 (UTC+2:00).

Name Country Boulder Lead Total
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 98.9 76.1 175
2 Ai Mori JPN 44.9 92 136.9
3 Oriane Bertone FRA 79.4 54.1 133.5
4 Brooke Raboutou USA 54.1 68 122.1
5 Miho Nonaka JPN 53.9 54.1 108
6 Jessica Pilz AUT 44.4 54.1 98.5
7 Anastasia Sanders USA 53.5 39 92.5
8 Jain Kim KOR 19.1 72 91.1
9 Natalia Grossman USA 34.4 54.1 88.5
10 Chaehyun Seo KOR 29.3 57.1 86.4
11 Manon Hily FRA 28.2 54.1 82.3
12 Molly Thompson-Smith GBR 24.6 54.1 78.7
13 Hélène Janicot FRA 19.6 54 73.6
14 Mia Krampl SLO 34.5 39.1 73.6
15 Zélia Avezou FRA 34.3 39 73.3
16 Oceania Mackenzie AUS 34.9 36.1 71
17 Vita Lukan SLO 29.4 36.1 65.5
18 Ayala Kerem ISR 33.8 20 53.8
19 Yejoo Seo KOR 13.9 39.1 53
20 Kyra Condie USA 33.4 12.1 45.5
21 Laura Rogora ITA 18.9 14 32.9
         
1 Sorato Anraku JPN 84.9 100 184.9
2 Toby Roberts GBR 64.7 100 164.7
3 Colin Duffy USA 68.9 88.1 157
4 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 84.7 64 148.7
5 Jakob Schubert AUT 44.8 100 144.8
6 Adam Ondra CZE 64.1 80 144.1
7 Dohyun Lee KOR 69.6 60.1 129.7
8 Paul Jenft FRA 84.3 42 126.3
9 Mejdi Schalck FRA 83.9 42 125.9
10 Ao Yurikusa JPN 64.5 57.1 121.6
11 Sean Bailey USA 69.5 42 111.5
12 Yannick Flohé GER 49.8 60.1 109.9
13 Alexander Megos GER 49.8 57.1 106.9
14 Mickael Mawem FRA 69.5 36.1 105.6
15 Sascha Lehmann SUI 44.1 57.1 101.2
16 Meichi Narasaki JPN 69.8 28 97.8
17 Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 53.8 39 92.8
18 Nicolai Uznik AUT 49.5 42.1 91.6
19 Yunchan Song KOR 34.1 57.1 91.2
20 Sam Avezou FRA 54.7 28 82.7

 


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