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Simon Lorenzi sends Burden of Dreams, his third 9A boulder problem

On 27 December 2023 26-year-old Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi repeated Burden of Dreams at Lappnor in Finland, claiming his third 9A boulder problem after Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland and Soudain Seul at Fontainebleau in France.

Planetmountain

December 2023

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Simon Lorenzi sending Burden Of Dreams, his third 9A boulder problem

Gilles Charlier

After a concerted effort spread out over more than 30 days in Lappnor in Finland, on Wednesday Simon Lorenzi managed to repeat Burden of Dreams, Nalle Hukkataival's masterpiece that in 2016 became the first ever boulder problem to be graded 9A. In doing so, the 26-year-old Belgian climber has become the first climber to send three 9A boulder problems, after Shawn Raboutou's Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland in 2022 and his own Soudain Seul at Fontainebleau in France in 2021.

Comprised of only 5 moves, Burden of Dreams is characterised by a pure style moving through tiny crimps and crystals on a 45° boulder that has repelled some of the very best climbers in the world. It was established by the Finn following three years of work and its grade was confirmed only this year when Scotland's Will Bosi grabbed the coveted second ascent.

Lorenzi got extremely close to the send a few days, falling off the final hold while climbing at night in search of better conditions, and after his send he stated simply: "From being something not even imaginable in my craziest dreams not a long time ago to the achievement of a life goal."

Currently 9A stands as the absolute apex of bouldering and it is fascinating to see that one climber has managed to send three of the world's hardest problems; he is now in a unique position to be able to comment what each of these entail.

It would be equally fascinating to see him try his luck on Terranova at Moravsky Kras in the Czech Republic. Put up by Adam Ondra in 2011 and originally graded 8C+, after being pretty much forgotten about for more than a decade, this autumn the line repelled the herculean efforts of Will Bosi, fuelling thoughts that it may well be half a grade harder. Time will tell. In the meantime Lorenzi can rightly sit back and relax, safe in the knowledge that a huge weight has been lifted off his shoulders.

Lorenzi thanks: SCARPA, Petzl, Adeps, Patagonia, gillescharlier.com