Simon Lorenzi repeats Alphane (9A) at Chironico, Switzerland

Simon Lorenzi from Belgium has repeated Alphane, the 9A boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April this year and repeated in October by both Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi.

With 4 ascents this year alone Alphane is now by far the most popular 9A - unsurprisingly so one might argue given its prime location - and in ticking the problem Lorenzi is now in the enviable position of having climbed two 9A's. His first, his February 2021 creation Soudain Seul at Fontainebleau, was hailed as only the second 9A in the world; since being established in 2021 it has been repeated by Nico Pelorson who suggested a downgrade to 8C+/9A, while Camille Coudert confirmed the 9A grade.

Lorenzi, who needed about 20 sessions for the send, told planetmountain.com "I tried it for the first time at the beginning of September. I was immediately amazed by the line and the movements. At the end of the week I managed to do the boulder in two parts, so that was promising considering the warm conditions. The first part is the hardest for me. The first 7 moves (with intermediate holds) feels like 8C, where you need to be really efficient to not fall at the end. I was surprised how much your ability to pull with your feet is important on this climb."

Concerning the grade, the 25-year-old stated "I think it's 9A, yes. The addition for me is 8C into 8B with no rest, so 9A seems logical. It feels harder than the 8C+ I have already done or tried. To me it seems in the same range as Soudain Seul, just in a different style." When asked further, he explained "The climbing is very different to that in Font. Font is more 3D and complex. Here it's the same as climbing on a spraywall, but I like that!"

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Simon Lorenzi (@simonlorenzi)

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER GILLES CHARLIER
Gilles Charlier is a young director passionate about cinema but also about adventure, sport and nature. "I like to bring something new in sports videos: an aestheticism, a story, an emotion. My perfectionism pushes me to go further and further in my work and to spend as much time as necessary to make sure the result is perfect. Passion is the key to my work and I am always looking for new and exciting projects! Don’t hesitate to contact me if you have an idea in mind." www.instagram.com/gilles.charlier/