Scott Muir Tsunami M12

in February Scott Muir from Scotland managed to make an important first ascent 'Tsunami' M12, at the Mission Impossible Cave in Northern Italy.
Just before Spring set in Scott Muir from Scotland managed to make an important first ascent 'Tsunami' M12, at the Mission Impossible Cave in Northern Italy. Muir spent two full days bolting the line together with climbing partner Malcolm McIlraith, before sending the dream line in mid-February. After this performance, Muir set about creating "a new easily accessible low grade sport mixed venue just outside Cogne at Moline." But let's hear what the young Scot had to say about his Italian experience:

"It is not often that such obvious and fantastic lines gets overlooked, especially when most of the best mixed climbers in the world have repeated the nearby Mission Impossible M11. Tsunami climbs the obvious line of weakness to the left of Mission, taking the roof at its largest and linking up some scary big flakes that are somewhat detached.

The route finishes on the extreme left end of the stalactite fringe that extends all the way down the crag to Mission Impossible. It really is a dream route for me, especially since it was Mission that inspired me into sport mixed in the first place and last year's ascent was a personal milestone.

It is a world-class venue and hopefully Tsunami falls into this crag and genre perfectly. The Mission Cave looks like a massive wave with the ice fringe as the white horses, hence Tsunami, also the route is named in memory of the disasters in Asia.

With support from the local guides association in Cogne, Albino and Viviana Savin at Bar Licone we also established a new easily accessible low gradesport mixed venue just outside Cogne at Moline. The Sub Club and Wine Cellar has produced a fantastic selection of short, safe and fun routes from M4 -M6 (details available in Licone). Hopefully by providing more routes in thelower grades more people will be able to experience sport mixed, get into it and move the sport forward. My own experience of lower graded sport mixed M5 - M8 at the moment is that, the bolts are often spaced and poor, which is fine if you onsight M10, but not if you are a beginner. Enjoy."

Scott Muir

Scott Muir's Brief Dry Tooling CV

Tsunami M12 FA Italy
Musashi M12 Canada
Too Fast Too Furious D12 FA Scotland
Fast and Furious D11 FA Scotland
Mission Impossible M11 Italy
Empire Strikes Back M11 Italy
A Fist Full of Steel M11 Colorado
Kurt Astner's new route M10+/M11 Italy
Tomahawk M10+/M11 Switz
Fly in the Wind M10+ Italy
White Out M10+ Switz
Tool Time M10+ Switz


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Photos: Scott Muir making the first ascent of his Tsunami M12.
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