Rob Matheson (74) repeats 'The Bells, The Bells' (E7) at Gogarth in North Wales
Rob Matheson has made an astonishing repeat of The Bells, The Bells! at Gogarth in North Wales. The route in question is of the boldest, and consequently least repeated, trad climbs in Britain, and what makes Matheson's ascent absolutely mind blowing is not only the fact that he has summoned up the courage to make this dangerous lead, but also that he is 74 years old!
Located on Gogarth's imposing and atmospheric North Stack Wall, The Bells, The Bells! packs a punch physically, but above all, psychologically. First ascended by John Redhead in 1980, it was the UK’s first E7 at the time. The protection is minimal, and the route’s life-threatening nature meant it waited six years for its first repeat, climbed onsight by the audacious Andy Pollitt. Over the next 40 years, it has seen only a handful of further ascents — according to the excellent website Climbing History, just six — as a fall would almost certainly have dire consequences.
Matheson began considering the line last year, carefully analysing the moves and protection, but hesitated to tie into the sharp end of the rope. Yesterday, belayed by his son Craig, he did just that, completing what will surely go down as one of the most monumental trad repeats of all time.
This is a developing story, and further details about Matheson’s historic climb will follow in due course. In the meantime, check out the video above of Matheson analysing the gear.