Mauro Bole unstoppable: M10 repeated second attempt; first M10 onsight!
The Italian Mauro Bole Bubu confirms his reputation as one of the best ice climbers in the world by repeating Stevie Haston’s X-Files in Lillaz, Val di Cogne, Italy, as well as Welcome to the Machine M10 in Valsavarenche and then onsighting Lionel Daudet’s Quartier Nors M10.
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| After Mauro 'Bubu' Bole's first ever onsight of an M9, Welcome to the Machine in Val d'Aosta at the end of last year, it was clear that M10 was well within his grasp. Just one week passed though before he struck again, this time repeating the famous X Files, one of the hardest mixed ice climbs in the world on 6/01/2000. Situated in Lillaz, Val di Cogne, Italy, this M10 was first ascended by Stevie Haston in December 1997. Bubu had been on the route once in 1989, but a lack of ice beyond the crux forced him to abandoned his attempt. Conditions this year were better and he sent it first try, confirming the grade M10. But more was yet to come. Exactly one day later, the Frenchman and winner of this year's Piolet d'Or Lionel Daudet first ascended Quartier Nors M10 in Val Freissinières, Argentiere, France Equipped about a month ago, this route had shaken off many of the best ice climbers in the area before finally being freed by Daudet. Quartier Nors is about 50m long: an initial section up rock leads to a three meter roof at half-height, before finishing up an obvious icicle. Just an hour after this first ascent Bubu tied in at the foot of the climb and then dispatched it onsight. He confirmed the grade M10. This first ever M10 onsight is confirmation, if confirmation were needed, of Bubu's inspirational and seemingly unstoppable form. Watch this space... |  (Valsavaranche, Bubu Bole onsight on 'Never say never' M8+ - photo A. Gallo) |
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29/12/1999 - Alpinism
'Welcome to the machine' M9 onsighted by Mauro Bubu Bole The Italian Mauro Bole becomes the first to onsight M9, by climbing Stevie Haston's 'Welcome to the machine', in Valsavarenche, Valle d'Aosta, Italy.
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